Tiểu luận an analysis of southeast nations involvement in the global value chain in the laboremployment garment industry

UEH UNIVERSITY
COLLEGE OF ECONOMICS, LAW, AND GOVERNMENT

ASSIGNMENT
SUBJECT: DEVELOPMENT ECONOMY
GROUP 2
AN ANALYSIS OF SOUTHEAST NATIONS' INVOLVEMENT

IN THE GLOBAL VALUE CHAIN IN THE LABOREMPLOYMENT-GARMENT INDUSTRY

Ho Chi Minh City, 2021-11-22

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ABSTRACT
The readymade garments (RMG) sector is a critical driver for Southeast Asia's economic and social
development. As a result of the severe effect of COVID-19, the RMG sector has been confronted with a neverseen-before occurrence. Because the supply chain has been significantly impacted, businesses and regulators
are concerned about how to mitigate disruptions caused by pandemics. As such, this research intends to
examine the vulnerability and capability factors affecting the RMG industry in Vietnam, their connection, and
the effect on the supply chain resilience of these variables. Also, this study investigates the impact of Covid
-19 on woman labor working in the RMG industry. So that we can propose some solutions to improve the
situation post-pandemic.
1. INTRODUCTION
The COVID-19 epidemic has impacted the worldwide supply chain. Natural catastrophes (floods, earthquakes, etc.),
terrorist attacks, pandemics, and other occurrences that have a low likelihood but great effect cause supply chain
interruptions (SARS, Ebola, Swine flu, COVID-19, etc.). The latest COVID-19 outbreak is undoubtedly the
century's most cursed pandemic (Parsons, 2020). By June 2020, it will have killed 0.5 million people and infected 10
million. COVID19 has disrupted supply chains for 94 percent of Fortune 1000 companies (Ivanov, 2020; Fortune
2020). According to Dun & Bradstreet, 16 percent of Fortune 1000 businesses have tier-1 and tier-

2 suppliers in Wuhan. Tier-2 suppliers offer raw materials to tier-1 suppliers, whereas tier-1 suppliers give
raw materials to tier-2 suppliers. At least 5 million global enterprises have tier-2 suppliers in that region
(Smith, 2020). As a result, China's exports decreased 17% in January-February 2020, and global trade might
fall up to 32% in 2020. (Sarkis et al., 2020). However, demand for pharmaceutical items has surged as a
result of the pandemic (McKinsey & Company, 2020). While afflicted nations have employed social
isolation, communal quarantining, and lockdown to limit the virus, widespread unemployment has created
social and economic issues. The COVID-19 problem might cost up to 25 million jobs, according to the ILO.
Garment, garment, and footwear production in several Southeast Asian nations are competitive because of
cheap labor costs, strategic location, privileged access to the market, and favorable government regulations. At
the same time, other nations continue to place a premium on producing large quantities of low-value goods
using cheap labor as their principal competitive edge (Huynh 2015). Because they relied on a small number of
key raw material suppliers, Southeast Asian garment manufacturers are particularly vulnerable to supply chain
disruptions. They are also more dependent on foreign suppliers because of the unpredictability of electricity
supplies and the insufficient reliability, timing, and scale of local input production. While growing labor
expenses are putting economic pressure on certain nations, poor worker productivity must also be addressed
(Andersson, Machiels, and Bodwell 2019).

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Asia is the world's largest and most populous continent. So this continent's fashion history is likewise vast
and varied. The clothing business has evolved to meet the changing requirements of the people. Asia's
clothing industry has risen considerably with the use of technology. This industry's growth has generated
many workers, notably female workers. It has also addressed people's necessities despite limited income.
China, India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Turkey are the top five garment exporters by region (accounting for
53 percent of global garment export turnover).
The present COVID-19 epidemic has impacted many parts of Asia's economy and society, including the
clothing industry. The epidemic that has halted manufacturing has had a severe impact on Asia's clothesconsuming partners. Workers lose earnings due to delays in cross-border commodities delivery.
2.

GARMENT INDUSTRY ANALYSIS IN SOUTHEAST ASIA’S NATIONS:

2.1. Southeast Asia Overview:
Many Southeast Asian nations can compete in the labor-intensive garment, garment, and footwear manufacturing
industries because of their comparatively low labor costs, strategic locations, market accessibility, favorable schools,
and supporting government policies. Simultaneously, other nations continue to prioritize high volumes of low-valueadded products, relying heavily on cheap labor as their primary competitive edge (Huynh 2015).

While there are certain benefits in the global market, the garment and apparel sector faced several severe
obstacles when the COVID-19 epidemic erupted. To begin, the suspension of commerce between nations to
prevent the spread of the illness has had a devastating impact on global supply networks. An excellent example
is Chinese handcrafted items that have been trapped in the nation for an extended period, resulting in nearly
abandoned orders. This demonstrates the vulnerability of Southeast Asian garment and garment makers to
supply chain disruptions as a result of their over-reliance on a few major raw material sources. Numerous
Southeast Asian businesses have been forced to cease operations and lay off staff as a result of order
cancellations and production constraints.
Additionally, the COVID-19 outbreak altered people's behaviors, resulting in adjustments to everyday
demands. Along with the supply chain shortfall, there is resource scarcity, including the timing and size of
local input production; and the industry's productivity has been hampered by the industry's inconsistent power
supply system. Rising labor expenses, particularly in some countries, have increased economic pressure and
contributed to low worker productivity, both of which are issues in the context of the COVID-19 pandemic.
2.2. Garment industry in some Asian nations (Bangladesh):
COVID-19 has had a profoundly damaging effect on the world economy's economic sectors. It is also hard
to avoid the strong wave of arriving from this century's pandemic, particularly in Asian nations whose
manufacturing strength is in garment items.

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Bangladesh - one of ten Asian nations with significant garment and apparel production capability - also suffered
from COVID's influence - 19. Previously, particularly during 2018 and 2019, Bangladesh was the second biggest

garment provider in the global clothing supply chain, with 34.13 billion USD in export revenue.

However, until the COVID-19 epidemic in late 2019 or early 2020, this country's garment exports were badly
harmed. Export revenue was 27.94 billion USD, down roughly 20% with an absolute value of more than 6
billion USD from pre-epidemic levels (according to data of the Export Promotion Bureau - EPB of
Bangladesh). Bangladesh had lost its status as the world's second-biggest garment maker at the time and had
been supplanted by Vietnam, which projected an export revenue of around 29 billion USD by the end of 2020
(According to statistics of Vietnam).
In response to this circumstance, the Bangladesh government has also taken measures to give prompt
assistance packages to assist companies in resolving their problems. Additionally, several measures such as
deferring loan payments, lowering interest rates, and promoting payment services have all contributed to the
garment industry's prosperity in this country.
It is the Bangladesh government's timely support that has increased the country's garment export turnover to
31.5 billion USD in the 2020-2021 fiscal year (which ends in June 2021) (the total industry reached 38.7
billion USD), an increase of nearly 13% over the same period last year, but still 7% below the result of 20182019 before the epidemic. Exports of knitwear climbed by 21.94 percent year on year to about 17 billion USD,
while exports of woven products increased by 3.24 percent year on year to 14.5 billion USD, led by exports of
knitted goods. Domestic garment exports climbed by 49.17 percent year over year to 1.13 billion USD.
2.3. Vietnam's garment industry:
Garments and garments are regarded as critical sectors in several economies, including Vietnam. Vietnam's
garment and apparel sectors have made significant progress in recent years, both in terms of output and
export. Whereas the average annual growth rate of garment and apparel manufacturing was 7.9 percent from
2016 to 2020, it rose by more than 33 percent in 2018.
The garment and garment sector has shown greater signs of progress in the first nine months of 2021 compared to
the same period last year, owing to the recovery of the production chain and an increase in conventional orders.
According to the Vietnam Garment and Apparel Association (VITAS), Vietnam's total garment and apparel export
revenue reached $29 billion in the first nine months of 2021, up 13.2 percent from the same period in 2020 and
down 0.04 percent from the same time in 2019. This means that all of the major export items gained in value over
the same time last year, specifically: Apparel reached 21.7 billion USD, an increase of 5%; fabric reached 1.8
billion USD, an increase of 37.4%; fiber reached 4 billion USD, an increase of 56.2 percent; nonwoven fabrics
reached USD 557 million, an increase of 77.3 percent; and garment and garment accessories

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reached $921 million, an increase of 21.8 percent. Total imports of raw materials and auxiliary materials
totaled 18 billion USD, up 27.9 percent year on year.
However, until the third quarter of 2021, the situation for Vietnamese garment and apparel firms was
exceedingly tough due to the extraordinarily problematic and extended growth of the COVID-19 outbreak in
Ho Chi Minh City. Businesses in Ho Chi Minh City and the southern regions confront a variety of obstacles,
including shutting, ceasing production, producing in moderation, being unable to complete orders, being
forced to deliver late, sending products via plane, or being delayed. Order cancellations wreak havoc on the
supply chain.
Numerous firms in the southern regions incur significant expenditures as a result of attempting to organize
production "3 on-site," "1 route - 2 destinations," or "4 green," but yet only having approximately 10% - 30%
of employees report to work. This is detrimental not just to the economy, but also to the customer's reputation.
These trends are evident in August exports, which fell 15.9 percent compared to July 2021 and 2.63 percent
compared to August 2020; September exports, which totaled 3 billion USD, fell 9.2 percent compared to
August 2021 and 10.5 percent compared to September 2020.
3. IMPACT OF COVID – 19 ON GARMENT INDUSTRY:
COVID-19 has had a significant impact on the apparel sector in Southeast Asia. Order cancellations and
manufacturing constraints have led several Southeast Asian businesses to close their doors and lay off staff. The
industry's pre-pandemic issues have been compounded, resulting in increased volatility and shortages of key
production elements such as raw materials, which affect many segments of the value chain. Closures of factories in
other countries have hampered the timely arrival of imported inputs and interrupted garment manufacture.
Additionally, research indicates that the COVID-19 epidemic may increase demand for sustainable fashion items as
customers turn away from new clothing purchases and toward reusing them (Richetti and Palma 2020).

The COVID-19 situation has also brought to light the industry's dearth of support services for vulnerable
workers, aggravating disparities. In the short term, lack of access to essentials, uneven home obligations, hiring
discrimination based on gender, and an increased risk of gender-based violence may make women workers in

the business more vulnerable. Additionally, there are long-term effects, as restricted access to social assistance,
uncontrolled working conditions, and less access to health care services may all contribute to women's
economic and social empowerment (ILO 2020). The epidemic may also have a significant impact on children
since economic constraints and inadequate safety nets force many youngsters into child labor (ILO and
UNICEF 2020).
3.1. Supply chain disruption:
Due to the fast growth of COVID-19, businesses all over the globe have been forced to examine and review their
operations. As firms strive to get goods and supplies to individuals in need, supply chain management is a prime

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example of this. Business supply networks must be reliable in the face of demand shocks, logistical restrictions
as well as global or local shutdowns. The short-term supply chain effect is the primary focus for most firms,
with a concentration on fulfillment. Several of them are there to learn from the hard lessons of COVID-19 and
to reconsider their approach to supply chains, with a focus on resilience in particular. It's been a long time since
the government and other organizations have taken action to alleviate the financial challenges faced by
manufacturers. There should be no compromise on the safety of workers and employees at any industrial site.
During the lockdown period, they reopen factories with a few fair terms and conditions to reduce their loss.
Garment producers have been attempting to discover a means to remain robust in the face of calamities, like
this time's pandemic. Due to the high level of uncertainty on both the supply and demand sides, which creates
difficult supply and demand difficulties, a collaborative effort including the government, foreign purchasers,
local groups, garment manufacturers, and labor rights organizations is essential. However, a concentrated effort
involving all of the main stakeholders is very improbable, as the stakeholders' level and the dimension of
interest differ. Due to the peculiar circumstances, purchasers decided to schedule a crushing season instead of
the usual season, affecting the chain of all the parts. Individuals in this sector have expressed their concern that
it is not easy to return to normal in a short period with financial and other help.
3.2. Women in the garment sector:
The literature on women's participation in global value chains is mostly concerned with women's fulfillment of
low-paid, labor-intensive jobs in the manufacturing sector, a topic that is ubiquitous across industries. Women's

economic and social empowerment may be impacted in both good and bad ways as a result of this. Women's
inclusion in global value chains, according to Barrientos (2019) and the World Bank (2013), represents an
opportunity for developing countries and emerging economies to integrate themselves into global value chains
by utilizing women as a source of cheap labor, allowing companies that employ women in their workforces to
compete on price. Barrientos (2019) emphasizes the advantages that women have reaped as a result of this
inclusion, saying that labor in the food and garment industries that were previously performed by women for
free is now being compensated. This has the potential to economically empower these women.
Women can reap greater economic benefits in countries that can upgrade their positions in value chains, as they see
opportunities for promotion to traditionally more male-dominated management positions, but they can also reap
greater societal benefits as they are afforded increased worker protections as a result of fulfilling roles that can add
greater value. Increased demand for labor, followed by increased competition for labor, as in the case of the Kenyan
flower or Nike apparel value chains, and improved working conditions as a result of public governance (as with
minimum wages and labor standards, as in the case of the Kenyan flower value chain) are all examples of what can
lead to improved working conditions. In such cases, enhanced economic empowerment for women in the value
chain may go hand in hand with sociocultural upgrading for women in the industry (Barrientos, 2019). Women's
involvement in global value chains, on the other hand, might be counterproductive

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to their empowerment. According to Barrientos, Bianchi, and Berman (2019), when global value chains induce
price squeezes, such as when they are controlled by a limited number of lead purchasers, employees' human
rights, as well as their income, may be harmed. This has the greatest impact on people of certain ethnicities.
Men and women are treated differently in global value chains, according to Barrientos and colleagues (2019),
with women seen as an easily available supply of low-cost labor. Barrientos (2019) points out that when
manufacturers employing women compete aggressively on price, their pay and workers' rights would be
undermined. This is especially true when women provide the majority of labor-intensive low-wage labor. In
such conditions, the social compliance of businesses is weak, with employees missing the ability to protest
decisions and social audits failing to detect gender-based discrimination and harassment, among other things
(Barrientos et al., 2019).

In times of crisis, this might leave women particularly vulnerable. In times of crisis, women are more susceptible,
according to the Work and Opportunities for Women study. Forstater (2010) focuses primarily on the effect of the
global financial crisis of 2007–2008 on the global value chains of the clothing industry. This arrangement, which
saw trends in suppliers diverge, helped to shape the garment sector's dynamics before the crisis. A tier of highly
competitive "commodity manufacturers" competed on low costs, while a higher value-add consolidated supplier was
differentiated from the lower cost "commodity manufacturers." Existing patterns were intensified as a result of the
crisis, with pressure being applied to low-cost suppliers resulting in layoffs. Among women and migrant workers,
this was especially widespread in countries where garment manufacturing had already begun to experience a steady
structural decline before the crisis, as well as in countries where garment production had already begun to decrease.
As Forstater (2010) points out, women in certain countries were exhibiting their susceptibility by participating in
low-wage, labor-intensive employment in value chains.

3.2.1.COVID-19's economic effect on women in the clothing industry
The economic effect on persons working in the garment value chain was caused by COVID-19 supply and
demand shocks (CastaedaNavarrete, Hauge, & LópezGómez, 2020). As a result of their dependency on China for
raw materials and equipment, Bangladesh, Cambodia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam were unable to
sustain manufacturing (Leitheiser et al., 2020; Sen et al., 2020). In Bangladesh, for example, 93% of
manufacturers reported experiencing supply problems during the outbreak (Leitheiser et al., 2020).
While supply from China swiftly recovered as virus instances decreased, demand from the US and Europe fell as a
result of increased virus cases and accompanying consumer lockdowns. While global textile trade increased 40% in
Q3 2020 and 16% in Q4 2020 (UNCTAD, 2021), the decline in demand has substantial implications for several
manufacturing nations' workforces. Output quantities depended partly on demand, but also on a country's capacity to
sustain production. In contrast, nations with fewer COVID-19 instances were better able to meet the remaining
demand: Vietnam, for example, recorded a maximum production drop of -18.3%. Indonesia (Yayasan CARE Peduli,
2020), Myanmar (Hall, 2020), and Cambodia (von der Dellen, 2020).

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Given that women execute the bulk of manufacturing labor, especially unskilled employment, we may assume

that negative economic repercussions on garment value chains have disproportionately harmed women. There
is insufficient evidence on the particular consequences of supply and demand shocks on women in Asia. Due
to supply and demand fluctuations, all garment makers reported being influenced by supply and demand
shocks (IMF, 2021), notwithstanding Vietnam's greater resistance to COVID-19 (Giang & Hong, 2020). In a
survey with just six women and three men, both male and female employees reported income losses of 20% to
50% (Giang & Hong, 2020). In surveys of 57 garment workers, the ILO (2020c) found that between 20% and
50% of employees had their income decreased, and 30% had their salary slashed by more than half. While
Giang and Hong-do do not disclose significant variations in income losses between men and women, the fact
that this industry employs 80% of women means that women would be disproportionately impacted (Giang &
Huong, 2020).
In Myanmar, 90 percent of the 700,000 textile workers are women, usually aged 16 to 23, who regularly
migrate from rural regions to Yangon (Hall, 2020).
Because of the decline in demand for their goods, over half of these individuals may be suspended without pay
or lose their employment permanently (Hall, 2020). Interviews with 23 female and five male garment factory
workers revealed that canceled orders resulted in factories closing “immediately”, with no advance notice and
no pay (Hall, 2020). Hall (2020) emphasizes that not all jobless garment workers in Myanmar will be eligible
for government assistance. While the government has declared it would compensate 40% of factory workers'
salaries, this only applies to those enrolled with the Social Security Board. No one addressed this, according to
Hall (2020). An Enlightened Myanmar Research Foundation and Andaman Research & Advisory research
found that just 29% of Yangon garment workers had written contracts, leaving the rest informally employed
and possibly ineligible for government assistance.
Cambodia's majority-female textile workers also felt the demand shock. Cambodia's clothing and footwear sector
employs over 770,000 workers, 639,000 of whom are women (83 percent ). It is estimated that canceled orders
have impacted 60% of Cambodian companies and 500,000 people (Fair Labor Association, 2020). Despite the
recovery of clothing manufacturers, von der Dellen (2020) adds that at the outset of the pandemic 91,500 workers
were laid off for one to two months, and up to 200,000 employees (89 percent women) were in danger of losing
their jobs. Employees who are suspended must be paid 40% of the $190 monthly minimum salary, according to the
Fair Labor Association (2020). The government provided $40 every month and the manufacturers agreed to give
$30. As a consequence, many suspended employees fell into poverty.
Supply and demand shocks hit Bangladesh. Anner (2020a) reports that 45.8% of suppliers said: “a lot” to “most” of

almost finished or completed orders were canceled, while 5.9% had all orders canceled. 72.1 percent of purchasers
refused to pay for suppliers' raw materials, while 91.3 percent refused to pay for suppliers' production expenses,
forcing 58 percent of factories to close. 98.1 percent of customers declined to contribute to furlough

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salaries, and 97.3 percent refused to contribute to severance compensation, leaving manufacturers to cover
these expenses despite lack of income. As a consequence, 72.4% of furloughed employees were not paid.
Anner (2019a) shows that this occurred during a period of pricing pressure on suppliers due to an oligopolistic
market and rising competition from suppliers in China and Vietnam. As a result, both suppliers and their
workers had unstable circumstances.
In the US, like in other nations, the demand shock affects women disproportionately. Anner (2019b) puts the
figure at 74%, while Better Work Bangladesh (2020) puts it at 61%. (Anner, 2019b; Better Work Bangladesh,
2020). Anner (2019b) reports that women earn less than males, with an average monthly pay of $77.34 vs
$92.94 for men, and only 4.3 percent reporting that their salaries always covered their living expenditures
versus 12.2 percent for men. This shows that already insecure employees in this industry are especially exposed
to economic shocks. Better Work Bangladesh (2020) further states that women are viewed as slower and hence
less productive employees than males and that they are less likely to be supervisors than men. Women are more
likely than males to be laid off in several Indian workplaces, and most women over 40 have not been rehired,
according to the Asia Floor Wage Alliance (AFWA, 2020b).
This study sought to assess the immediate consequences of COVID-19 on the lives of 255 female textile
workers in Bangladesh. They were afraid of losing their jobs, not being paid, going hungry, and contracting
COVID-19. 56% feared lockdowns preventing everyday requirements, 35% feared unpaid wages, 39% suffered
food shortages, and 9% were sick. This caused mental health difficulties, with 91 percent citing work anxiety,
52 percent worried consumers won't purchase again, 28 percent expecting job loss, and 49 percent anticipating
payment delays. The fact that women make up a disproportionate number of garment workers means that
women are disproportionately impacted by these issues. Employers may also target pregnant women for
layoffs. Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation has filed 50 cases on behalf of pregnant garment workers in
Bangladesh who have been fired by employers, while the Bangladesh Garment and Manufacturers Exporters

Association disputes this.
Demand shocks have impacted women in garment factories throughout South and Southeast Asia, but these value
networks also involve informal homeworkers. Suppliers outsource manufacturing tasks to homeworkers, who are
often self-employed. This form of labor is vital for women since it allows them to combine work with domestic and
family chores. It also benefits women who are unable to work outside the house due to religious or cultural gender
prejudice (Von Broembsen, 2020). WIEGO (2020a) estimates that five million home workers are employed in the
garment industry in India alone. A study of 340 textile firms in Delhi and Bengaluru found that 58% use these
freelancers (WIEGO, 2020a ). Homeworkers in the clothing industry struggled to keep working during the pandemic
because they couldn't stockpile before supply shocks and then were hit by demand shocks that cut orders (WIEGO,
2021a). The OECD recognizes these women as real supply-chain employees, entitled to the same rights as others
(WIEGO, 2021a), but they lack institutional support structures (ILO, 2020a; Von

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Broembsen, 2020). However, governments have committed help for informal house workers: A cash incentive
of 5,000 baht (about 50% of minimum wage) was granted to informal workers in Thailand following
campaigning by WIEGO (WIEGO, 2021a). WIEGO (2020a) proposes a 2% “supply-chain relief contribution”
from purchasers to help homeworkers. However, even purchasers who have committed to supporting
homeworkers often have little visibility over the workers to whom manufacturers outsource labor, and hence
cannot directly assist them (Von Broembsen, 2020). Laut von Broembsen (2020), companies should retain
records of homeworkers and their work, and aid in training and formalizing assignments. But this is rare.
Homeworkers are therefore more sensitive to COVID-19's economic effects.
As previously indicated, several nations have increased output after the first supply and demand shocks.
Better Work (2021) shows that some manufacturers have moved to make personal protection equipment (PPE)
to keep going, however, it is uncertain if this is a viable business model. Regardless, the initial decline in
demand has impacted many suppliers throughout Asia, and hence many female workers' wages.
3.2.2.COVID-19's domestic effects on garment workers
COVID-19 affects women's home life because of their simultaneous domestic and commercial roles in the garment
value chain. While women who have had their hours decreased, furloughed, or laid off due to COVID-19 may have

more time for domestic and care tasks at home, they have less means to maintain dependents. Better Work
Bangladesh (2020) also states that domestic workers are more likely to be laid off. AFWA reports that childcare
facilities at industries in Bengaluru, India, have closed, forcing women to choose between work and childcare
duties. According to AFWA, in India, teenage girls are being compelled to labor to assist struggling families. To
support their families, girls in Tamil Nadu are being taken to work and live in spinning mills, raising fears that they
will never return to school, that they are working in dangerous circumstances, and that shifts may be up to 16 hours
per day (AFWA, 2020b). In Vietnam, both women and men reported increased time spent on domestic labor,
although women reported it more than men (Giang & Hong, 2020). The epidemic has raised the demand for unpaid
care labor, which is expected to fall on women in Myanmar (Hall, 2020). In Indonesia, CARE (Yayasan CARE
Peduli, 2020) reports that women working fewer hours in textile manufacturers are taking on greater care duties.
Work and Opportunities for Women (WOW, n.d., a) describe many migrant employees returning home due to
factory closures. However, many rural migrants working in the garment industry are unable to return home due to
travel limitations, leaving childcare to other family members in their community. Due to the epidemic, many men
are working shorter hours, therefore the domestic care duty may be split more equitably between men and women.
Deshpande (2020) observes that in India, the domestic labor load is now divided more evenly between women and
men since more men have lost employment and so have more time to spend on domestic chores. Gender-based
violence (GBV) is one of the consequences of women and men spending more time at home (WOW, n.d., a; Tejani
& Fukuda-Parr, 2021; Homenet South Asia, 2020). GBV rises when women and men spend more time together at
home, with few opportunities for women

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to leave. It's difficult to assess the influence on GBV levels since reports don't always represent all incidents.
Hall (2020) summarizes the research on GBV in Cambodia without concluding whether levels are rising or
falling. There were 22 informants (17 women and 5 males) who worked in jobs requiring monitoring or
reacting to GBV cases, 10 of whom had access to particular case numbers. Four reported again, while six
reported no change or a decline. Most responders did not observe or hear any change in GBV levels. Six
persons saw an increase, while five had a decline. Interestingly, women who saw a drop in GBV ascribed it to
males drinking less and bars closing. Reduced earnings have led to an upsurge in thefts, which

disproportionately harm women (Hall, 2020). These findings should be interpreted with caution due to the
limited sample size and the fact that reported cases of GBV may not always correspond to real cases.

3.2.3.Women's health in the clothing industry
To satisfy client expectations while complying with social distancing norms, suppliers frequently have to choose
between their own and their workers' economic stability or their health. Employers may not have taken procedures
to ensure that health hazards to workers are minimized, according to accumulating research on employer health and
safety practices. Employers that have established COVID-19 awareness and health and safety policies face
challenges about their enforcement and universal application. A SEDEX (2020) study of 469 suppliers from 51
countries found that 78% had educated staff on health protection, 72% had adopted physical distance, and 15% had
expanded workers' access to health insurance. Workers in Cambodia and Vietnam were warned about the dangers of
COVID19, according to the ILO (2020f). According to the same document, Sri Lankan workers' temperatures are
measured at transit points, and sewing machines and canteen chairs are socially separated (ILO, 2020f). However,
the ILO (2020f) warns that any precautions made may not be enforced across factories. Also, not all employees may
be similarly affected. For example, 10% of suppliers responding to SEDEX stated health and safety requirements
only applied to regular employees, putting contractors and informal labor in danger (SEDEX, 2020). It is noted that
although certain steps are implemented

– such as PPE – others are not – such as social separation. According to the ILO (2020f), just 20% of
individuals polled in Cambodia stated social distancing mechanisms were in place in common spaces such as
canteens, and only 14% said work areas had been altered to allow for social distance. The ILO (2020f) reports
that over half of those questioned in Bangladesh had not obtained PPE. In Myanmar, respondents claimed
clothing manufacturers supplied masks, sanitizer, and hand-washing facilities, while some felt more was
required. To safeguard employees' health, trade unions in Cambodia pushed the government to temporarily
cease garment manufacturing, however many workers returned to work within months (von der Dellen, 2020).
Homeworkers are in danger, according to Homenet South Asia (2020), since they work in close quarters with
others and lack access to PPE or sanitizer.

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The epidemic has also caused concerns with mental and reproductive health. A CARE (2020) poll of
Bangladeshi textile factory workers found 91% concerned about their employment. According to Better Work
Bangladesh (2020), women who lost income due to the pandemic were less likely to buy sexual and
reproductive health items.
Women who work in the garment value chain seem to be in danger of harmful working conditions if they return to
factories. Women may also be forced to choose between returning to dangerous jobs or losing money.

4.

IMPACT OF COVID 19 ON GLOBAL VALUE CHAIN OF SOUTHEAST ASIA’S NATIONS:

4.1. China:
One may argue that COVID-19 has wreaked havoc on global value chains. COVID-19, on the other hand, has
a varied influence on each country's commercial sector. Businesses that sell sporting equipment, for example,
are anticipated to rebound when lockdown restrictions are eased and outlets in big marketplaces reopen.
Meanwhile, firms that sell formal attire continue to face several obstacles.
For China - dubbed the "world's factory" - the global value chain has triggered a severe earthquake. Because, since
the US-China trade war began in 2018, the US and many developed Western countries have pushed for the process
of "decoupling" the supply chain from China. Rather than that, countries rely on supply chains in Asia, particularly
Southeast Asian countries such as Vietnam. Until the end of 2019, the strong outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic
disrupted supply and demand in this country, resulting in a severe economic crisis. For the garment industry, China
is still a major supplier to the world, particularly South Asian countries, when it comes to products such as addedvalue synthetic fibers, winter wear fabrics, shoes, slippers, polyurethane tape, clothing, and nonwoven rolls, but they
also believe that it will take at least six to nine months for the clothing supply chain to return to normal. In such a
scenario, nations such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam that are linked to
China's global value chain, such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam, will be
unable to continue producing owing to their reliance on raw materials. as well as Chinese equipment (Leitheiser et
al., 2020; Sen et al., 2020). In Bangladesh, for instance, 93% of producers reported experiencing supply problems
during the outbreak (Leitheiser et al., 2020).

4.2. Myanmar:
Approximately 50% of workers in this nation face being laid off without compensation or permanently losing their
employment owing to a decline in demand for their products (Hall, 2020). Hall said that 64% of enterprises in
Myanmar are projected to encounter cash flow difficulties, posing a danger to the garment industry's viability.
Interviews with 23 female and five male garment industry workers reveal that lost orders resulted in the firm closing
"immediately," without notifying employees in advance or paying them salaries (Hall, 2020). Indeed, 58,000
garment workers are presently unemployed in Myanmar, but not all are eligible for government assistance. Although
the government has indicated that it will compensate 40% of earnings for workers in

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shuttered industries, this figure covers only employees who are registered with the Social Security
Commission. festival. Employees who have engaged in an employment contract face the same non-payment of
compensation. To be more precise, a 2017 survey showed that just 29% of garment workers in Yangon with
signed contracts are likely to be ineligible for government assistance (Myanmar Research Fund and Andaman
Research & Advisory, 2017).
4.3. Cambodia:
Cambodia, too, experienced a demand shock that impacted the labor. Around 770,000 people are employed in
Cambodia's clothing and footwear industries. However, according to the Fair Labor Association, canceled orders
would affect 60% of industries and 500,000 workers in Cambodia by 2020. Although the Cambodian government
says that 90% of garment workers have returned to work as of April, 91,500 workers were laid off for one to two
months at the onset of the pandemic, and up to 200,000 workers are at risk of losing their employment. According to
the Fair Labor Association (2020), companies must obtain government consent before suspending workers and must
compensate them at 40% of the monthly minimum salary of 190 USD. Von Der Dellen (2020) recalls, however, that
the manufacturers finally agreed to give $30 per month in addition to the $40 provided by the government. As a
result, many prosperous employees were thrown into poverty.

4.4. Bangladesh:
Bangladesh is similarly subject to supply and demand shocks. Anner (2020a) claimed that 45.8 percent of

suppliers indicated that the majority of orders were virtually canceled and 5.9 percent of suppliers indicated
that they have canceled all orders. Around 72.1 percent of buyers refused to pay for the raw materials
purchased by the supplier; 91.3 percent refused to pay for the supplier's production costs, and 58 percent of
manufacturers were forced to close the majority or all of their activities. Over one million garment workers in
Bangladesh have been laid off or laid off; 98.1 percent of buyers have refused to contribute to wage increases
and 97.3 percent have refused to contribute to severance pay, and factories have received little or no
government assistance, leaving factories to cover these costs on their own despite their lack of revenue. As a
result, 72.4 percent of low-wage workers were sent home on unpaid leave. Anner (2019a) argues that all of
this occurred within a background of pricing pressure on suppliers that have been ongoing for some years,
owing to a mix of oligopolistic markets and greater supplier rivalry. China and Vietnam are both sources of
supplies. As a result, both suppliers and their employees have faced considerable uncertainty.
4.5. Vietnam:
Garments are considered as one of the key sectors of many economies, which Vietnam is also one of the countries
that consider garment and garment as a key industry. In recent years, Vietnam's garment and garment industry has
made positive strides in terms of both production and export. In which, the average growth rate of

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garment and garment production in the period 2016 - 2020 reached 7.9%/year, in 2018 alone it increased by
over 33%.
In the first 9 months of 2021, the garment and garment industry has had more positive signs than the same period
last year thanks to the recovery of the production chain with the increase of traditional orders. According to data
from the Vietnam Garment and Apparel Association (VITAS), Vietnam's total garment and garment export turnover
in the first nine months of 2021 reached $29 billion, up 13.2% over the same period in 2020 and down 0.04%.
compared with the same period in 2019. In which, key export products increased over the same period last year,
specifically: Garments reached 21.7 billion USD, up 5%; fabric reached 1.8 billion USD, up

37.4%; fiber reached 4 billion USD, up 56.2%; non-woven fabrics reached USD 557 million, up 77.3%;
garment and garment accessories reached $921 million, up 21.8%. Total import turnover of raw materials and

auxiliary materials reached 18 billion USD, up 27.9% over the same period in 2020.
However, until the beginning of the third quarter of 2021, it has been an extremely difficult time for Vietnamese
garment and garment enterprises with the extremely complicated and prolonged development of the COVID-19
epidemic in Ho Chi Minh City. Ho Chi Minh City and the southern provinces cause businesses to face a series of
challenges: closing, stopping production, producing in moderation, being unable to fulfill orders, having to deliver
late, delivering by plane, or being delayed. Order cancellations cause supply chain disruptions.

Many businesses in the southern provinces, despite trying to arrange production "3 on-site", "1 route - 2
destinations" or production plan "4 green" but still only maintain about 10% - 30 % of laborers go to work,
the costs incurred are large. That not only causes damage not only in terms of economy but also a reputation
for customers. These things are clearly shown in the number of exports in August decreased by 15.9%
compared to July 2021 and decreased by 2.63% compared to August 2020; September exports reached 3
billion USD, continuing to decrease 9.2% compared to August 2021 and 10.5% compared to September 2020.
5. POST COVID-19 GARMENT INDUSTRY ANALYSIS:
Many Southeast Asian nations can compete in the labor-intensive garment and footwear manufacturing industries
because of their comparatively low labor costs, strategic locations, market accessibility, favorable schools, and
supporting government policies. Simultaneously, other nations continue to prioritize high volumes of low-valueadded products, relying heavily on cheap labor as their primary competitive edge (Huynh 2015).
While there are certain benefits in the global market, the garment and apparel sector faced several severe obstacles
when the COVID-19 epidemic erupted. To begin, the suspension of commerce between nations to prevent the spread
of the illness has had a devastating impact on global supply networks. An excellent example is Chinese handcrafted
items that have been trapped in the nation for an extended period, resulting in nearly abandoned orders. This
demonstrates the vulnerability of Southeast Asian garment and garment makers to supply chain disruptions as a
result of their over-reliance on a few major raw material sources. Numerous Southeast

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Asian businesses have been forced to cease operations and lay off staff as a result of order cancellations
and production constraints.
Additionally, the COVID-19 outbreak altered people's behaviors, resulting in adjustments to everyday

demands. Along with the supply chain shortfall, there is resource scarcity, including the timing and size of
local input production; and the industry's productivity has been hampered by the industry's inconsistent power
supply system. Rising labor expenses, particularly in some countries, have increased economic pressure and
contributed to low worker productivity, both of which are issues in the context of the COVID-19 pandemic.
The garment industry in some Asian nations (Bangladesh):
COVID-19 has had a profoundly damaging effect on the world economy's economic sectors. It is also hard
to avoid the strong wave of arriving from this century's pandemic, particularly in Asian nations whose
manufacturing strength is in garment items.
Bangladesh - one of ten Asian nations with significant garment and apparel production capability - also suffered
from COVID's influence - 19. Previously, particularly during 2018 and 2019, Bangladesh was the second biggest
garment provider in the global clothing supply chain, with 34.13 billion USD in export revenue.

However, until the COVID-19 epidemic in late 2019 or early 2020, this country's garment exports were badly
harmed. Export revenue was 27.94 billion USD, down roughly 20% with an absolute value of more than 6
billion USD from pre-epidemic levels (according to data of the Export Promotion Bureau - EPB of
Bangladesh). Bangladesh had lost its status as the world's second-biggest garment maker at the time and had
been supplanted by Vietnam, which projected an export revenue of around 29 billion USD by the end of 2020
(According to statistics of Vietnam).
In response to this circumstance, the Bangladesh government has also taken measures to give prompt
assistance packages to assist companies in resolving their problems. Additionally, several measures such as
deferring loan payments, lowering interest rates, and promoting payment services have all contributed to the
garment industry's prosperity in this country.
Bangladesh's timely support has increased the country's garment export revenue to 31.5 billion USD in the
2020-2021 fiscal year (which ends in June 2021). (the whole industry reached 38.7 billion USD). USD), an
almost 13% rise over the same period last year, although still 7% lower than the figure from 2018-2019 before
the outbreak. Exports of knitwear climbed by 21.94 percent year on year to about 17 billion USD, while
exports of woven products increased by 3.24 percent year on year to 14.5 billion USD, led by exports of
knitted goods. Domestic garment exports climbed by 49.17 percent year over year to 1.13 billion USD.
6. CONCLUSION:

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Due to low entry hurdles, accessible technology, and widely available skills, the textile and clothing sector is
critical to the development of the majority of the world's emerging economies, especially countries in South
and Southeast Asia rapidly absorbed. The textile industry in Vietnam is currently worth around US$200 billion
and is predicted to increase at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 12% to US$350 billion by 2024. It
provides 3% to India's gross domestic product (GDP) in 2018-19, 13% to industrial revenue, and 12% to
export profits, in addition to employing over 45 million people. Especially Bangladesh, which accounts for
6.4% of the worldwide market. The textile sector accounts for around 16% and 80% of Bangladesh's GDP and
export profits, respectively, and employs over 4 million people (Majumdar and Sinha, 2019). Vietnam is the
third-largest exporter of clothes, accounting for 6.2 percent of the worldwide market. Around 2.5 million
people are employed in the region. Vietnam has over 6000 textile and garment manufacturing enterprises, with
70% of them engaged in apparel manufacture. Textiles, together with tourism, are one of Cambodia's two main
industries. The textile and apparel sector in Cambodia employs around 3.35 million people, 90 percent of
whom are women. By and large, the textile and garment industry, which employs a vast number of people,
contributes significantly to the economies and employment of South and Southeast Asian countries.
COVID-19's breakout has impacted the bulk of the world's supply networks. According to multiple sources, up
to 94% of Fortune 1000 firms have suffered supply chain disruptions as a result of COVID-19 (Ivanov, 2020;
Fortune 2020). The epidemic of COVID-19 has had a major effect on the worldwide supply chain and demand
for garments as a whole. Leading exporters such as Bangladesh have grown anxious as raw material supplies
have dwindled and orders have decreased. Although several publications have highlighted a variety of aspects
to consider about supply chain resilience in the event of a worldwide pandemic, there are still a few
trustworthy indicators for suppliers in various nations.
COVID-19 has had a significant impact on the apparel sector in Southeast Asia. Order cancellations and
manufacturing constraints have compelled several Southeast Asian businesses to close their doors and lay off staff.
The industry's pre-pandemic issues have been compounded, resulting in increased volatility and shortages of
factors of production such as raw materials, affecting many segments of the value chain. Closures of
manufacturing plants in other nations have hampered imports and interrupted garment production.

7. ADMINISTRATIVE IMPLICATIONS:
The COVID-19 pandemic issue has had a severe impact on employees, particularly vulnerable workers and female
workers. Faced with this reality, governments must place a greater emphasis on data collection on employees
engaged in global value chains, segmented by gender, age, ethnic origin, and income, to better comprehend the
gender and disaggregated implications of future events such as COVID-19. This research focuses on labor-intensive
industries, which frequently employ low-skilled and low-paid individuals. As a result, a management strategy that
both mitigates disruption risk and is receptive to vulnerable workers and female

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workers is critical. Additionally, a critical policy issue for policymakers is to alleviate the burden of
migratory labor.
7.1. Enterprise policy:
Government organizations can aid clothing manufacturers in a variety of ways, including by suspending bank
interest and principal payments, exempting them from anti-dumping penalties, and reducing bank interest rates. are
all actions that will assist the garment sector in reviving more quickly and minimizing worker injuries.

Additionally, firms and suppliers should explore alternative sourcing models as appropriate. Risk-sharing
clauses must be included in the sourcing model to ensure that both parties share the loss in the case of an
unforeseen-but-possible interruption. Additionally, this new sourcing strategy must be organized through
industry associations (CMAI, Bangladesh Gar-referring Manufacturers and Exporters Association, or BGMEA,
for example) or non-governmental organizations (NGOs) involved in long-term relationships. Brands will bear
the increased economic burden associated with risk-sharing. This may be incorporated into the price model,
however, because social sustainability costs can be combined with corporate social responsibility – medical
spending. Adopting this sourcing approach can assist businesses in establishing a more sustainable image.
Additionally, businesses should mix 'Localisation' with 'Globalisation' to create the innovative 'Glocali-sation'
as a new sourcing approach to lessen reliance. their reliance on a single source of supply or country. Suppliers
interviewed thought that the COVID-19 post, India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Cambodia might seize this
chance to provide credible alternatives to the new label. "We have received several questions regarding our

manufacturing capacity and lead time from potential overseas clients amid this COVID-19 problem."
If a supplier has acquired raw materials but has not yet begun manufacturing the garment, the brand must
reimburse a portion of the material's cost, i.e. the fabric, in the event of order cancellation. If the item is
made (cut and sewed), the brand will cover the cost of textiles and manufacturing, including labor.
7.2. Employee policy:
The role of industry organizations or non-governmental organizations (NGOs) will be to ensure that social
issues such as child labor, forced labor, voluntary non-work, excessive overtime, discrimination against
treatment, health and safety, reasonable compensation, and emergency savings are clearly stated and practiced
by all stakeholders.
Businesses will face pressure from industry associations, non-governmental organizations, and national
human rights organizations to ensure that workers earn a living wage sufficient to meet basic needs (food,
clothing, housing, education, and women's health care) and to ensure a life of necessities. Continue to
compensate workers and therefore reduce their reliance on public assistance programs.

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Social safeguards for disadvantaged employees, particularly those in informal employment and hence not
entitled to the same degree of protection as formal workers, must be strengthened. This should also include
safeguards for employees and pregnant women who are at a higher risk of losing their jobs or income. Several
interviews- Wees advised that companies could use labor mobility to prioritize the supplier selection and order
allocation process. This will motivate suppliers to avoid contract terminations, at least in part, and will provide
workers with more job security. Much of the economic instability experienced by women in the textile
manufacturing business is a result of purchasers canceling or refusing to pay for finished orders or purchased
materials. As a result, it is vital to implement specific regulations regarding garment purchasers. Buyers across
the global textile and electronics value chains must be held responsible for their crisis-related order-busting
acts. Both electronics and textile value chains have buyers who are accountable for the circumstances in their
supply networks. COVID-19 has also compelled productive women in value chains to labor in hazardous
situations to fulfill demand, resulting in decreased employment rates.
When analyzing a buyer's ESG practices, their connection with suppliers and any efforts made to mitigate

issues with fair working standards should be considered. across the supply chain, including but not limited to
their prompt payment of suppliers during the epidemic and the steps taken to ensure that suppliers adhere to
proper working standards.
7.3. Government policy:
Governments have taken immediate measures, such as wage assistance, to lessen the pandemic's impact on
the industry.
In the long run, a variety of governmental measures might help the industry overcome obstacles and
achieve greater, more sustainable development.
Increase your competitiveness. Enhancing competitiveness via productivity improvements is critical for the
industry to sustain its development potential. Specifically, I reviewing growth-restraining policies such as
high raw material tariffs and cumbersome export permit procedures that contribute to high production costs;
(ii) upgrading vocational curricula and expanding access to training, particularly in rural areas; and (iii)
promoting the adoption of digital technologies such as smart factories and additive manufacturing that
enable mass customization of products.
Market expansion. At the moment, the region's exports are concentrated on a few key destinations, namely
the European Union and the United States.
There is a possibility that the trade privileges that facilitate such exports will eventually be revoked or graduated.

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To remain competitive, the sector must also explore product diversification and manufacture higher-valueadded clothes. With customers abandoning mass-produced clothing, governments may be able to incentivize
businesses to develop more complex product offers (McKinsey & Company 2019).
Increase the industry's resiliency. Increased productivity and the use of more advanced manufacturing
technology can help the industry withstand future demand shocks. According to ADB research,
implementing new technology in the sector may boost employee productivity by an average of 22% over
the following five years.
(According to the Asian Development Bank, 2021). A greater focus should be placed on shorter supply chains,
alternative local suppliers, and local marketplaces. Governments might also invest in machinery, training
people, and courting international investors to enable higher-value-added manufacturing practices. Finally, the

adoption of the circular economy has been proposed as a sustainable way to pursue recovery across industries,
including garment manufacturing, where there has been an increased focus on inefficient resource use,
polluting effects, and overproduction (Centre for the Promotion of Imports 2020 and Wijayasundara 2020).
Strive towards more adaptable manufacturing and business strategies. To enhance enterprises' flexibility in
the face of future shocks, garment manufacturers may need to be able to switch between production types in
response to changing customer demand. Governments can lead research and development (R&D) into new
technologies and their implementation in such industries, which would also require personnel with a variety of
transferrable skills.
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