Nghiên cứu sự biến đổi độ bền đường may trên trang phục quân đội

I H C QU C GIA TP. HCM
TR

US

NG

IH

BI

B

TRANG PH

I

d t may
:

8540204

LU N V N TH

TP.H

,

2022

C

i:
h

ih

-

ng d n khoa h c: TS. H Th

ch m nh

nh

ch m nh

TS. Nguy n Tu n Anh

Lu n v n th

cb ov t

ih

m 2022
nH
1. Ch t ch H
2.

m:
ng
ng: TS. Nguy n H u Th

3. Ph n bi n 1:

nh

4. Ph n bi n 2: TS. Nguy n Tu n Anh
5.

TS. H Th
n c a Ch t ch H

ng Khoa qu
c s a ch a.

CH T CH H

NG

NG KHOA

- HCM


I H C QU C GIA TP.HCM

C

I CH

IH C

T NAM

c L p - T Do - H

NHI M V LU N V N TH
H

:

MSHV: 2070069

m sinh: 05/06/1995

N i sinh: L

ngh d t may
I.

: 8540204

:
u s bi

II. NHI M V

b

i

I DUNG:
t c a m t s lo i ch

d ng trong may m

b

ng may t s n xu

c s d ng trong may m
i lo i ch may t s n xu

d

h p v i v t li u may trang ph
III.

ng hi
n s d ng v i ch
i hi n t

xu t l a ch n lo i ch

i.

M V : 06/9/2021

IV.

M V : 12/12/2021

V. H

H

NG D N: TS. H Th
...

H

TS. H Th

NG D N

g

CH NHI M B

... n m 2022

O


i

y

-

ng

h
-19.
Khoa -

Tp.HCM

.
-


ii

.
Xin


iii

Lu

t qu

u s bi n

lo i ch

it

b
n xu

iv
n s d ng. C

n

i thi u t ng quan v
c

c v nh ng v
ng, ph

u.

ng n

tv

t li u may trang ph c (v i), v t li
ts y ut

k t (ch may)

ng.
nh

n

u th c nghi m c a lu

c

u. N

n
n

t c a m t s lo i ch

ng hi

d ng trong may m c.
b
v

ng may t s n xu

c s d ng trong may m

i hi n t i.

b
s d ng. T
mb

n s d ng v i ch

i lo i ch may t s n xu
c lo i ch

b

p v i trang ph

mb

c ti t ki

i nh m

n xu t.

cs d
c p

iv

ng b
t s n xu

u
i ch ph bi

n k thu t ISO 13935n s d ng, k t h p v i x

li u th c nghi m b ng ph n m m

t qu c a lu
c th c hi n t

mc

-2

nghi m c a lu n
thu t Ki

nh/C
ph n D t

may 7.


iv
t qu th c nghi m. T
b

p v i lo i ch

mb

gi

c lo i ch

cm

mb

n xu

c l a ch n hi u qu

c

ph li u (ch may).
c hi n lu n v

i, h c h

th c, k

c nhi u ki n

nhi
c

s ng.
T
v i d t thoi

:

b

ng may, trang ph

i, v t li

t, ch may,


v

The thesis presents the results of study on the change of seam strength for sewing
threads on military uniforms from production to use. The structure of the thesis
consists of 4 chapters.
Chapter 1: An overview of the reasons for choosing the topic, objectives, research
contents, research situation at home and abroad on issues related to the research topic
as well as specifying the object and scope of the research..
Chapter 2: This chapter is presented the theoretical basis of the contents related to
the research topic such as garment sewing materials (fabric), bonding materials
(sewing thread) and some other factors.
Chapter 3: Presents the experimental studies of the thesis. Mention the object,
content, research method. The research content is presented in the thesis as follows:
Studying the characteristics and properties of some common sewing threads
currently applied in garment.
Study of seam durability from production to use with sewing thread applied on
the fabric being used in current military apparel.
Study of seam durability when changing the type of sewing thread from
production to use. From there, determine the type of sewing thread suitable for
military uniforms to ensure seam durability, and save production costs.
In this study, the thesis has used the research methods mentioned in chapter 3,
researched on 6 fabrics and 6 common thread types in the market by two methods
according to the technical standard ISO 13935- 1 and ISO 13935-2 from production
to use, combined with experimental data processing using microsoft excel 2016

software to analyze the results of the thesis. The tests of the thesis are carried out in
the laboratory of the Technical - Inspection Department/Department of Military
Supplies and at the companies: 28 Corporation One Member Limited Liability
company, Det May 7 Joint Stock Company.
Chapter 4: Presents the results of surveying the type of thread that has a durability
suitable for the type of sewing thread to ensure the research objectives, and to ensure


vi
the economy when it is possible to reduce production costs through the selection of
sewing thread. effective auxiliary materials (sewing thread).
Through the process of writing this thesis, I myself have cultivated and learned
a lot of knowledge and skills not only in my professional work but also in many
different fields. Help me become more mature in work as well as in life.
Keywords: seam strength, military clothing, bonding materials, sewing thread,
woven fabric


vii

c hi

is

ng d n c a

Th
t qu trong Lu

th

c
mv

c th c hi n c a

12

21


viii

M CL C
L IC

............................................................................................................ i
T ................................................................................................................ iii

ASTRACT ..................................................................................................................v
L

................................................................................................... vii

DANH M

....................................................................................... xi

DANH M

NG ..................................................................................... xii

M TS

U VI T T T.......................................................................... xvii
U T NG QUAN ..........................................................1

1.1

.............................................................................................1

1.2

u ......................................................................................1
c................................................1
c ................................................2

1.3

M

1.4

u .......................................................................3
ng, ph

u ......................................................................4

1.4.1. V t li u may: V i ...............................................................................4
1.4.2. V t li

t: ch may ...................................................................5

1.4.3. K t c

ng may ............................................................................5

1.4.4. Thi t b
1.5

C

m: ............................................................................5
...........................................................................................7
T .........................................................................8

2.1.

Gi i thi u chung v v i d t thoi [17] ..............................................................8
2.1.1. C
2.1.2.

a v i d t thoi .....................................................................8
mc ut oc

2.1.3.
2.1.4.
2.2.

b

i............................10

c c a v i ......................................................13

m c a m t s lo i v i s d ng trong may m

i .....14

Gi i thi u v ch may [16] [17].....................................................................17
2.2.1.
2.2.2. M t s
2.2.3.

2.3.

it

n v ch may.....................................................17
c

n c a ch may ..............................................17
t c a m t s lo i ch may [16] [19] .....................18
t chi ti t s d ng ch may .............................................19


ix
2.3.1.

n ...............................................................19

2.3.3.

nc

2.3.4.

ng may .............................................22

b nc

t li u ................................................22
U TH C NGHI M ..................................................25

3.1.

N

u .....................................................................................25

3.2.

u...............................................................................25
3.2.1.
h th

ng h
t. ......................................................................................25

3.2.2.

u th c nghi m:............................................26
T QU TH C NGHI

4.1.

K t qu kh

4.2.

K t qu kh

4.3.

K t qu ki

a ch n m t s lo i ch
i v i s d ng trong d

ng trong lu n

.....37

i .....................37

b
iv
ng may v i t ng lo i v i theo
......................................................................................................38

4.3.1.

b

i Gabadin peco K08 ...............................38

4.3.2.

b

i Gabadin len 50/50 ...............................40

4.3.3.

b

i Gabadin len 70/30 ...............................42

4.3.4.

b

i Popeline pevi K13 ...............................44

4.3.5.

b

.........................46

4.3.6.

b

i Tropical in loang K20 .........................48

4.3.7.
4.4.

N LU N ............................37

t qu th nghi

.....................50

K t qu ki
b
i v i t ng lo i v
..................................................................................................................53
4.4.1. K t qu ki

b
i Gabadin peco
..............................................................................53

4.4.2. K t qu ki

b
i Gabadin len
...........................................................................55

4.4.3. K t qu ki

b
...........................................................................57

4.4.4. K t qu ki

b
Popeline pevi
..............................................................................59

4.4.5. K t qu ki
K20 theo ph

b
..............................................................................61


x
4.4.6. K t qu ki
4.4.7.
4.5.

Kh

b
i Tropical in loang
..............................................................................63
t qu th nghi

kinh t c

.....................65

..................................................................67

K T LU N ..............................................................................................................72
U THAM KH O ......................................................................................74
PH L

n k thu t ISO 13935-1:2014 .........................................76

PH L C 2:

n k thu t ISO 13935-2:2014 .........................................88

PH L C 3: B

may c

...........101

..................................................................................103
O ......................................................................................103
...................................................................................103


xi

ng may th

................................................................5
..................................................21

3.1.M u th nghi m v

d n c a m u th ...................28

u th nghi m ph n g ch c t b ..........................................................28
u th

thi

th nghi

.....................29

u th nghi m th c t

......................................30
d n c t m u th

Grab ...........................................................................................................................31
u th nghi m sau khi c

ng d n .............................................32

ng d n l p m

p ...................................33

u th nghi

..................................................33

th hi n l
lo i v

n

c kh

: N) .............................................................................50
th hi n l

lo i v

c kh

i ch
gi

: N) ..............................................................51

th hi n l
nghi

u v i th nghi
th hi n l

nghi

i ch

u v i th nghi m sau gi

i ch th
: N) .............65
i ch th
: N) 65


xii

B ng 1.1. B ng th

t s lo i v

d

i

hi n nay (v i d t thoi) .................................................................................................4
B ng 1.2. Thi t b
B

k thu t ....................................................6
tv

B

c c a m t s lo

........................................10

m m t s lo i ch may ...................................................................18

B ng 2.3. B ng th hi n m t s

n c a m t s lo i ch s d

c u .............................................................................................................................19
B ng 4.1.K t qu

b

t c a m t s lo i ch may ...............................37

B ng 4.2.K t qu

b

i c a m t s lo i v i .................38

B ng 4.3.K t qu

nh l c l n nh

iv

i ch

i Gabadin peco

: N) .........................................................................38

B ng 4.4. K t qu

iv il

ng may

.................................................39
B ng 4.5. K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh

i gabadin peco

u th sau gi t. ........................................................39
B ng 4.6.B
iv

n c a m u th nghi m sau gi t
i Gabadin peco K08 ........................................................40

B ng 4.7.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh

i Gabadin len 50/50

.............................................................................................40

B ng 4.8.B

n c a m u th nghi

iv i

i Gabadin len 50/50 .....................................................................41
B ng 4.9.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh t l

i Gabadin len 50/50

u th sau gi

: N) ..............................................41

B ng 4.10.B
iv

n c a m u th nghi m sau gi t
i Gabadin len 50/50 ........................................................42


xiii
B ng 4.11.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh

i Gabadin len

: N) .................................................................42
B ng 4.12. B

n c a m u th nghi

iv i

i Gabadin len 70/30 .....................................................................43
B ng 4.13.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh

n

u th sau gi
B ng 4.14.B

i Gabadin len

: N) ....................................43
n c a m u th nghi m sau gi t

iv

i Gabadin len 70/30 ........................................................44

B ng 4.15.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh

i Popeline pevi

: N) ...................................................................44
B ng 4.16.B

n c a m u th nghi

iv i

i Popeline pevi K13 .....................................................................45
B ng 4.17.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh

i Popeline pevi

u th sau gi
B ng 4.18.B

: N) ......................................45
n c a m u th nghi m sau gi t

iv

i Popeline pevi K13 ........................................................46

B ng 4.19.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh

ng may
: N) .........................................................46

B ng 4.20.B

n c a m u th nghi

iv i

...........................................................47
B ng 4.21.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh

loang K20, m u th sau gi

o CVC in

: N)...................................................................47

B ng 4.22.B

n c a m u th nghi m sau gi t

iv

...............................................47

B ng 4.23.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh
: N) ...............................................................................................48
B ng 4.24.B

n c a m u th nghi

iv i

i Tropical in loang K20 ...............................................................48


xiv
B ng 4.25.K t qu ki m tra l c l n nh
loang K20, m u th sau gi

v : N)...................................................................49

B ng 4.26.B

n c a m u th nghi m sau gi t

iv

i Tropical in loang K20...................................................49

B ng 4.27. B
b

l

a m t s lo i ch

ng may cao so v i ch

nghi m sau khi gi t) ..................................................................................................52
B ng 4.28.K t qu ki

b

i Gabadin peco K08

: N) ...........................................................................53
B ng 4.29.K t qu

nv il

ng may

................................................................53
B ng 4.30.K t qu ki

b
u th sau gi

B ng 4.31.K t qu

i Gabadin peco K08
: N) ..............................................54
nv il

ng may

u th sau gi t ...................................54
B ng 4.32.K t qu ki

b

i Gabadin len 50/50

: N) ...........................................................................55
B ng 4.33.K t qu

nv il

nv
B ng 4.34.K t qu ki

ng may

.................................................55
b
u th sau gi

B ng 4.35.K t qu

i Gabadin peco K08
: N) ..............................................56
nv il

t

ng may

u th sau gi t .....................56
B ng 4.36.K t qu ki

b

ng may

i Gabadin len 70/30

: N) ...........................................................................57
B ng 4.37.K t qu

nv il

t

ng may

.................................................57


xv
B ng 4.38.K t qu ki

b

i Gabadin len 70/30theo

u th sau gi

: N) ......................................................58

B ng 4.39.K t qu

nv il

ng may

u th nghi m sau gi t. .......58
B ng 4.40.K t qu ki

b

t

i Popeline pevi K13

: N) ...........................................................................59
B ng 4.41.K t qu

nv il

ng may

.................................................59
B ng 4.42.K t qu ki

b

i Popeline pevi K13

u th sau gi

: N) ..............................................60

B ng 4.43.K t qu

nv il

ng may

u th nghi m sau gi t. .......60
B ng 4.44.K t qu ki

b
: N) ...................................................................61

B ng 4.45.K t qu

ng k

nv il

ng may

........................................61
B ng 4.46.K t qu ki

b
u th sau gi

B ng 4.47.K t qu

ng th

: N) ......................................62
nv il

ng may

................................................62
B ng 4.48.K t qu ki

b n

i Tropical in loang K20

: N) ...........................................................................63
B ng 4.49.K t qu

nv il

ng may

...........................................63
B ng 4.50.K t qu ki

b

i Tropical in loang K20

u th sau gi
B ng 4.51 K t qu

ng th

: N) ..............................................64
nv il

ng may

...........................................64

xvi
B ng 4.52. B

l

b

a m t s lo i ch
i ch

B ng 4.53.Kh

ng hi
n xu t ch

66
i v i m t s lo i ch may (theo s li u

...................................................................67


xvii

Ch vi t t t
PET
Peco
Pevi
TCVN
ASTM

CTY TNHH MTV

Polyester

n Vi t Nam
Hi p h i qu c t v th nghi m v t li u (International
Association for Testing Materials)
mh uh nm


T ng quan

1

C U T NG QUAN
1.1
Ch

ng may ph thu

.V

ch

t nhi u y u t

ng may hi

c bi t quan
u trong s n ph m may.

b
ut v

b

i ch

kim may, d n

b n c a ch , m

ng may, v t li

ng v

nh

c nhi u s quan

ng d ng r
v

ch pd nl
u ti p t
ng t t nh

i v i nhi
u nh

c s n ph m may v i ch t

i s d ng.

H uh

u ch

um
u th c hi

m i, th i trang. Qua kh

n ph

, vi c l a ch n ch
n th

i hi n

s d ng 1 lo i ch duy nh t cho t t c

n ph m may m
h
v

n c a khoa

hi n nay, r t nhi u lo i ch m
n ph

c ki m ch

i

i.
th c hi n
i v i trang ph

1.2

u v s bi

b n

i.

u
u v ch

uv

th c hi

ts

c
c
uv s
kim, m

tc av
iv

n ch c
h

u ti

ng c a m t s

i Peco, Cottonth c hi

r

c th c hi n b
i cotton.
iv ik
i v i. [1]


T ng quan

2
ng s

ki

i ch

u ch ra s

b

i cotton. [2]
ng s th c hi

c at

ng

uv s

a ch may cho v t li u ch
Md. Shamsuzzaman Rasel

[3]

ng s

c u v chi s ch

ng

c hi
b

i

d t thoi. [4]

u m i v ch
may v i ch

t li

ng

c S. Kumar, Suryasarathi Bose

c ng s th c hi n. [5]
c
M t s lu
t

v t li u d t may,

ih

i

d t may

i quy t m t s

v y ut

ch may.
Tr n Th

(2007)

li

uv s

ng c

t ch

b

d ng 4 lo i ch

ng may.
m

u. Lo i th nh t g m 3 lo i ch
c

PET

i th hai g m 2 lo i ch

n

ng nhau

hau [6].

c u v nh

a ch

u m t s lo i ch
s

ns

iv

ng may.
i Peco. K t qu cho th y

ma

c

H ng H

ng may

i. H n ch

i v i truy n th ng trong may m c [7].
Nguy n Th M Chi

u ch ra ba y u t
a ch may, l
n ch c

c
m [8].

a ch may hay thi t b

ng


T ng quan

3
Nguy n Th

r

t lo i v t

li u m

u2y ut
n ch

v

ng v

PV

may

may, m

i

[9].

Nguy

u kh

c

a m t s lo i ch

ch

cm ts

s n xu t ch
mc

i ch

Nguy
b
b

m

ng may, t

p may[10].

uv m ts y ut

ng

u c th v y u t m

nh

a ch

p v i lo i v i s d ng

[11].
u v h s gi m b n c a ch
o th c hi
may 301 s d

c th c hi

ng

u l p[12].
Nguy

u ch ra s

ng c a

m ts

t s lo i

v i nh [13]

c1s

c c a ch

a m t s lo i ch may [14].
Hanh th c hi

im ts

cs
c c a ch

t.

[15]
1.3 M

u

M
b nc

a Lu

ng may t s n xu

trong ph m vi Lu
u
trang ph

m

b n c a ch
d ng.

m:
nh m
i t s n xu

b nc
n s d ng.

d ng m t s lo i ch may m
c

u c th

d ng trang ph c.

ng l i s bi n d ng


T ng quan

4
ng gi

ng s n ph

s d

lo i ch may v i v t li u may trang ph
n gi

p

i.

n xu t trang ph

s d ng hi u

qu ph li u ch may.
T k t qu c

ti p t c tri

b n

n ph m may ch

mt

n

d ng

ch may.
1.4

ng, ph
Lu

u
c th c hi n

v i v t li

u ki

t li

b

ng may

ng s d ng ch y

i v i bao g m

tv

may.

1.4.1. V t li u may: V i
Hi n nay, trong may m
v i d t kim, v i d t thoi
lu

ts v

th c hi

ph c c a b
may m

id

i.

iv
ng th

i

d ng c

B ng 1.1. B ng th

STT

. Gi i h

uc a

d

iv

may trang
c s d ng trong

:

t s lo i v
d
hi n nay (v i d t thoi)
i

c

M

i

s d ng

ph
1

V

Len/PET 70/30

2

V

Len/PET 50/50

3

V

4

V i Popeline pevi K13

5

V

6

V i Tropical in loang K20

PET/Cotton
65/35
PET/Visco
65/35
PET/Cotton
50/50
PET/Cotton
65/35

May qu

c h

chi
chi n h


T ng quan

5

1.4.2. V t li

t: ch may

Lu

d ng ch may
u g m 6 lo i ch v

40/3; 60/2; 40/2).
1.4.3. K t c

ng may
u th c hi
c

ng may th

,k tc

ng may 301. Do

i s d ng ch y u lo

t.
a s n ph

b

ng d c qu

iv

ph

ic

M
Trong trang ph c c a b

t nhi

um
nhau. Trong kh
i, lu
c

nm

th

ng c a lu

l a ch n nh
ct k tc

l c t i thi
u cao c a trang ph c b

l

ng may l n nh

ng may th

nghi m:

c th c hi n t
thu t - Ki
thu t - T

ng

ng may 301.

1.1. C
1.4.4. Thi t b

ng l

m c a Ban K thu t - Ki
nh/ C

mD t

Nhu m,