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Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood
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Title: Glories of Spain
Author: Charles W. Wood
Release Date: October 3, 2010 [EBook #33833]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
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GLORIES OF SPAIN
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF ZARAGOZA CATHEDRAL.]
GLORIES OF SPAIN
Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood 1
BY
CHARLES W. WOOD, F.R.G.S.,
AUTHOR OF
"LETTERS FROM MAJORCA," "IN THE VALLEY OF THE RHONE," ETC., ETC.
[Illustration]
WITH EIGHTY-FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS.
London
MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED
NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
1901
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED.
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.
CONTENTS.
Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood 2

CHAPTER I.
AT THE GARE D'ORLÉANS.
On Calais quay At the Custom-house A lady of the past Ungallant examiner Better to reign than
serve Paris Vanity Fair Sowing and reaping Laughing through life At the Hôtel Chatham A pleasant
picture In maiden meditation M. Pascal is wise in his generation The secrets of the Seine Notre Dame Ile
St. Louis A mediæval atmosphere Victor Hugo Ghosts of the Hôtel Lambert H. C. again His little
comedy M. the Inspector Outraged ladies "En voiture, messieurs!" Mystery not cleared The
Orléanais La Vendée Garden of France A dilemma Polite Chef de Gare Crossing the Garonne Land of
corn and wine 1
CHAPTER I. 3
CHAPTER II.
A NARBONNE HOSTESS.
Carcassonne In feudal times Simon de Montfort Canal du Midi L'âge d'or et le Grand Monarque A
modern Golden Fleece One of earth's fair scenes Choice of evils M. le Chef yields Narbonne A woman
of parts The course of true love runs smooth Diner de contrat Honey versus the lune de miel Madame's
philosophy L'Allée des Soupirs An unfinished cathedral At the gloaming hour Mystery and devotion The
Hôtel de Ville A domestic drama High festival and champagne The next morning H. C.
repentant Madame at her post Ambrosial breakfast "Il faut payer pour ses plaisirs" Dramatic
exit Perpignan Home of the kings of Majorca Elne "Adieu, ma chère France!" Over the
frontier Gerona Crowded platform What H. C. thought Unpoetical incident From the sublime to the
ridiculous 12
CHAPTER II. 4
CHAPTER III.
BLACK COFFEE AND A CONFESSION.
Continued uproar H. C. disillusioned A dark night Not like another Cæsar More crowds A demon
scene Fair time Glorious days of the past In marble halls and labyrinthine passages Our excellent
host His substantial partner Contented minds Picturesque court Songless nightingales Conscription H.
C.'s modesty Our host appreciative but personal Bears the torch of genius A mistake Below the
salt Host's fair daughters Catalonian women The Silent Enigma Remarkable priest Good
intentions Lecture on black coffee Confessions Benjamin's portions A gifted nature 27

CHAPTER III. 5
CHAPTER IV.
A NIGHT VISION.
Wrong turnings H. C.'s gifts and graces Out at night The arcades of Gerona At the fair Ancient
outlines Demons at work In the dry bed of the river Roasting chestnuts Mediæval outlines In the
vortex Clairvoyantes and lion-tamers Clown's despair Deserted streets Vision of the night Haunted
staircase Dark and dangerous A small grievance The reeds by the river Cry of the watchmen Hare and
hounds Fair Rosamund Jacob's ladder New rendering to old proverbs Cathedral by night H. C.
oblivious Scent fails Return to earth Romantic story Last of a long line El Sereno! The witching
hour H. C. unserenaded Next morning Grey skies A false prophet Magic picture Cathedral by
day Mediæval dreams 41
CHAPTER IV. 6
CHAPTER V.
GERONA THE BEAUTIFUL.
A Gerona señora Grace and charm Lord of creation Morning greeting Arcades and ancient
houses Conscription Gerona a discovery Streets of steps Ancient eaves and rare ironwork Old-world
corner Desecrated church Gothic cloisters Ghosts of the past Visions of to-day Soldiers
interested "Happy as kings" Lingerings Colonel seeks explanation No lover of antiquity More
conscription Dramatic scene Pedro to the rescue Mother and son Sad story Strong and merciful Pedro
grateful Restricted interests Colonel becomes impenetrable again 58
CHAPTER V. 7
CHAPTER VI.
ANSELMO THE PRIEST.
Beauties of age Apostles' Doorway How the old bishops kept out of temptation Interior of cathedral Its
vast nave Days of Charlemagne And of the Moors A giant dwarfed Rare choir Surly priest And a more
kindly Our showman Dazzling treasures Father Anselmo Romantic story Heaven or the
world? Doubts The gentle Rosalie decides Sister Anastasia Told in the sacristy A
heart-confession Anselmo's mysticism Heresy Charms of antiquity Scene of his triumph Celestial
vision Church of San Pedro Pagan interior Rare cloisters Desecrated church Singular
scene Chiaroscuro Miguel the carpenter His opinions Daily life a religion Anselmo improves his

opportunity "A reflected light" Ruined citadel War of succession Alvarez and Marshall Gerona in
decadence A revelation Dreamland Midday vision 72
CHAPTER VI. 8
CHAPTER VII.
A DAY OF ENCOUNTERS.
"Can a prophet come out of Galilee?" The unexpected happens Under the probe Wise reservation Born to
command Contrasts Nothing new under the sun The señora prepares for the fair Grievance not very deep
seated Bewitching appearance Señora dramatic Ernesto Marriage a lottery Every cloud its silver
lining Gerona en fête Delormais' mission Deceptive appearances Evils of conscription Ernesto's
ambition Les beaux jours de la vie Rosalie A fair picture Strange similarity Heavenwards Anastasia or
Rosalie Her dreams and visions Modern Paul and Virginia Eternal possession A Gerona saint The better
part More heresy Fénélon One creed, one worship Not peace but a sword Not dead to the world Angel
of mercy H. C. mistaken Earthly idyll 99
CHAPTER VII. 9
CHAPTER VIII.
MOTHER AND SON.
Demons at work In the crowd Ernesto and his mother Roasted chestnuts Instrument of torture New
school of anatomy Rhine-stones or diamonds? Happy mother Honest confession Danger of edged
tools Cayenne lozenges for the monkeys Joseph Early compliments Ernesto pleads in vain Down by the
river Music of the reeds Rich prospect Faust Singers of the world Joseph takes tickets Gerona keeps late
hours Its little great world Between the acts Successful evening In the dark night On the bridge Silence
and solitude Astral bodies Joseph turns Job's comforter Magnetism Delormais psychological Alone in
the streets Saluting the Church militant Haunted staircase again Sighs and rustlings H. C. retires "Drink
to me only with thine eyes" Delormais' challenge Leads the way Illumination Coffee equipage "Only the
truth is painful" Lost in reverie 114
CHAPTER VIII. 10
CHAPTER IX.
DELORMAIS.
Magnetism Past life Impulsive nature First impressions Perfumed airs A gentle spirit Haunted
groves Blue waters of the Levant Great devotion A rose-blossom Back to the angels Special

Providence Fair Provence Charmed days Excursions Isles of Greece Ossa and Pelion City of the violet
crown Spinning-jennies have something to answer for Olympus Ægina Groves of the Sacred
Plain Narrow escapes Pleasures of home-coming Rainbow atmosphere Orange and lemon groves The
nightingales Impressionable childhood Fresh plans The Abbé Rivière Rare faculty Domestic
chaplain Debt of gratitude Treasure-house of strength Given to hospitality First great sorrow Passing
away Resolve to travel "I can no more" The old Adam dies hard Chance decides 130
CHAPTER IX. 11
CHAPTER X.
DELORMAIS' ROMANCE.
Rome Count Albert Happy months Sweets of companionship Egypt Strange things Quiet
weeks Sinai Freedom of the desert Crossing the Red Sea Mount Serbal Convent of St. Catherine In the
Valley of the Saint Tomb of Sheikh Saleh Pools of Solomon Jerusalem the
Golden Bethel Lebanon Home again Fresh scenes Algeria Hanging gardens of the Sahel Mount Bubor
and its glories Rash act At the twilight hour Earthly paradise Fair Eve Fervent love Arouya Nature's
revenge Not to last Eternal requiem of the sea In the backwoods Hunting wolves Prairies of
California Honolulu Active volcanoes Lake of fire Rare birds and wild-flowers Worship of Peleus An
eruption Mighty upheaval Coast of Labrador Shooting bears 143
CHAPTER X. 12
CHAPTER XI.
MONSEIGNEUR.
Great conflict Returning to Paris Count Albert married Marriages declined Love buried in the grave of
Arouya Frivolities Napoleon at the Tuileries Illness Doctors' errors Days of horror Vow
registered Between life and death Victory Home again Abbé's objections Resolve strengthened Death of
the Abbé Taking vows Life of energy and action Rapid sketch Sympathies All
ordained "Monseigneur" "Mon ami" Cry of the watchmen Candles wax dim and blue Wandering in
dreams False prophet H. C. rises with the lark Beauty of Gerona Pathetic scene Colonel administers
consolation Widow's heart sings for joy In the cloisters again Good-bye In the
cathedral Anselmo Sunshine over all Miguel On the ruined citadel Anselmo's signal A glory departs
154
CHAPTER XI. 13

CHAPTER XII.
A MINISTERING SPIRIT.
Sweet illusions Everything seen and done True devotion In the vortex Sunshine and blue skies Less
demon-like pit Lights and shadows Arcades lose their gloom Rosalie Charm of Anselmo Romance not
dead H. C. in ecstasy Escorting an angel Cathedral steps San Filiu A lovely spot Ancient
house Mullions and latticed windows Passing away Rosalie's ministrations Resignation Rosalie's
farewell "Consuelo" Taken from the evil to come The door closed Ernesto's world topsy-turvy Ernesto
turns business-like The catapult again Up the broad staircase Not the ghostly hour Madame in her
bureau Posting ledger Balance on right side Madame philosophises Shrieks to the rescue "My dear
daughter" Our host and the nightingales Waiting for next year's leaves The Señorita Costello Delormais
on the wing Another vigil Promise given Departure Inspector quails H. C. collapses The susceptible
age Lady Maria alters her will Possession nine-tenths of the law 168
CHAPTER XII. 14
CHAPTER XIII.
A WORLD'S WONDER.
Barcelona H. C.'s anxiety Mutual salutes Old impressions Disappointment Familiar cries and
scenes Flower-sellers Perpetual summer Commercial element Manchester of Spain Surrounding
country Where care comes not Barcelonita The quays A land of corn and wine Relaxing air Lovely
ladies Ancient element conspicuous by its absence Historical past Great in the Middle Ages Wise and
powerful Commerce of the world Wealth and learning Waxes voluptuous Ferdinand and
Isabella Diplomatic but not grateful Brave and courageous Fell before Peterborough Napoleon's
treachery Republican people Prosperous once more Ecclesiastical treasures Matchless
cathedral Inspiration Influence of the Moors Work of Majorcan architect Dream-world Imposing scene
184
CHAPTER XIII. 15
CHAPTER XIV.
IN THE CLOISTERS OF SAN PABLO.
In the cloisters Sacred geese Bishop's palace House of the Inquisition Striking quadrangles Ajimez
windows A rare cloister Desecration Library Rare MSS Polite librarian Romantic atmosphere Santa
Maria del Mar Cloisters of Santa Anna Sister of Mercy San Pablo del Campo More dream

cloisters Communing with ghosts and shadows Spring and winter Constant visitor Centenarian Chief
architect Cathedrals of Catalonia Barbarous town-council Hard fight and victory Failing vision Emblems
of death Laid aside Wholesome lessons Placing the keystone Finis Resurgam Charmed
hour Possessing the soul in patience City of Refuge 203
CHAPTER XIV. 16
CHAPTER XV.
MONTSERRAT.
Early rising Imp of darkness Death warrant The men who fail Ranges of Montserrat Sabadell Labour
and romance The Llobregat Monistrol Summer resort Sleeping village Empty
letter-bags Ascending Splendid view Romantic element Charms of antiquity Human interests Mons
Serratus A man of letters Solitude à deux Fellow-travellers Substantial
lady-merchant Resignation Military policeman "Nameless here for evermore" Round man in square
hole Romantic history Cherchez la femme Woman a divinity Good name the best inheritance No fighting
against the stars Fascinations of astrology Love and fortune Too good to last Taste for
pleasure Ruin Sad end Truth reasserts itself Fortune smiles again Ceylon Philosophical in
misfortune A windfall Approaching Montserrat Paradise of the monks Romance and beauty New order
of things Gipsy encampment 214
CHAPTER XV. 17
CHAPTER XVI.
A HIDDEN GENIUS.
Monk's face Superfluous virtue "Welcome to Montserrat" Mean advantage Exacting but not
mercenary Another Miguel Missing keys Singular monk Hospederia Uncertainty Monk's idea of
luxury Rare prospect Haunted by silence Father Salvador privileged Monk sees ghosts Under Miguel's
escort In the church Departed glory The black image Gothic and Norman outlines Franciscan monk or
ghost? Vision of the past Days of persecution Sensible image Great community Harmony of the
spheres Sad cypresses Life of a hermit Monk's story Loving the world Penitence Plucked from the
burning Talent developed A world apart False interest Salvador Temptation and a compromise Salvador
extemporises "All the magic of the hour" Salvador's belief Waiting for manifestations. 227
CHAPTER XVI. 18
CHAPTER XVII.

SALVADOR THE MONK.
Gipsies Picturesque scene Love passages H. C. invited to festive board Saved by Lady Maria's astral
visitation The fortune-teller H. C. yields to persuasion Fate foretold Warnings Photograph
solicited Darkness and mystery Night scene Gipsies depart Weird experiences Troubled
dreams Mysterious sounds Ghost appears H. C. sleeps the sleep of the just Egyptian darkness In the cold
morning Salvador keeps his word Breakfast by candle-light Romantic scene Salvador turns to the
world Agreeable companion Musician's nature Miguel and the mule Leaving the world behind Darkness
flies St. Michael's chapel Sunrise and glory Marvellous scene Magic atmosphere Salvador's
ecstasy Consents to take luncheon Heavenly strains "Not farewell" Departs in solitary sadness Last of the
funny monk 249
CHAPTER XVII. 19
CHAPTER XVIII.
A STUDY IN GREY.
Manresa Tropical deluge Rash judgment Catalan hills and valleys Striking approach Taking time by the
forelock Primitive inn Strange assembly Unpleasant alternative Sebastien Manresa under a
cloud Wonderful outlines Disappointing church Sebastien leads the way Old-world streets Picturesque
and pathetic Popular character "What would you, señor?" Sebastien's Biblical knowledge at fault Lesson
deferred A revelation La Seo Church cold and lifeless Cave of Ignatius Loyola Hermitage of St.
Dismas Juan Chanones Fasting and penance Visions and revelations Spiritual warfare Eve of the
Annunciation Exchanging dresses Knight turns monk Juan Pascual Loyola comes to
Manresa Fanaticism Vale of Paradise "Spiritual Exercises" Founding the Jesuit Order Dying to self The
fair Anita In the convent chapel Two novices Vision of angels The White Ladies Agonising
moment Another Romeo and Juliet Back to the hotel Sebastien disconsolate "To-morrow the sun will
shine" Building castles in the air A prophecy fulfilled 263
CHAPTER XVIII. 20
CHAPTER XIX.
LERIDA.
Picturesque country Approaching Lerida Rambling inn Remarkable duenna Toothless and
voiceless Smiles upon H. C Nearly expires Civilised chef A procession Lerida Dragon City of the
dead Night study Charging dead walls A night encounter Armed demon Wise people Watchman proves

an old friend No promotion Locked out Rousing the echoes Night porter appears on the scene Also El
Sereno Apologetic and repentant The charming Rose Porter congratulates himself Cloudless morning H.
C. confronted by the Dragon In the hands of the Philistines A Lerida fine art Boot-cleaner in
Ordinary Remarkable character H. C. hilarious Steals a march 285
CHAPTER XIX. 21
CHAPTER XX.
THE STORY OF A LIFE.
Lerida by daylight Second city in Catalonia Past history Days of the Goths And Moors Becomes a
bishopric Troublous times Brave people Striking cathedral Splendid outlines Desecration The new
cathedral Senseless tyranny One of the most interesting of towns Crowded market-place Picturesque
arcades and ancient gateways Wine-pressers Good offer refused Another revelation Wonderful
streets Amongst the immortals Our Boot-cleaner in Ordinary again Thereby hangs a tale His story Blind
wife Modest request Nerissa Charming room Little queen in the arm-chair Faultless
picture Renouncements but no regrets "All a new world" Time to pass out of life Back to the quiet
streets H. C. contemplative Proposes emigration to Salt Lake City Lerida glorified by its idyll 296
CHAPTER XX. 22
CHAPTER XXI.
THE END OF AN IDYLL.
Days of chivalry not over In the evening light Night porter grateful Dragon in full force Combative and
revengeful Equal to the occasion Gall turns to sweetness when H. C. appears Last night in Lerida Bane of
our host's life Mysterious disappearance Monastery of Sigena Devout ladies Returning at night Place
empty and deserted Birds flown with keys Quite a commotion "The señor is pleased to joke" Was murder
committed? Mysteries explained Probably down the well Drag for skeletons Host's horror "We drink the
water" A tragedy Out in the quiet night Discords Lerida café Create a sensation Polite captain Offer
declined Regrets Final crash Paradise or Lerida Deserted market-place Trees whisper their secrets El
Sereno at the witching hour Hard upon the angels Not a bed of roses Alphonse End of a long life Until
the dawn Acolyte and priest "We must all come to it, señor" El Sereno disappears for the last
time Daybreak In presence of death Alone, but resigned Surpassing loveliness Sacred atmosphere 313
CHAPTER XXI. 23
CHAPTER XXII.

A SAD HISTORY.
Broad plains of Aragon Wonderful tones Approaching Zaragoza Celestial vision Distance lends
enchantment Commonplace people The ancient modernised Disillusion followed by delight Almost a
small Paris Cafés and their merits Not socially attractive Friendly equality Mixture of classes Inheritance
of the past Interesting streets Arcades and gables Lively scenes People in costume Picture of Old
Spain Ancient palaces One especially romantic The world well lost Fair Lucia Where love might reign
for ever Paradise not for this world Doomed The last dawn Inconsolable Seeking death Found on the
battlefield A day vision Few rivals In the new cathedral Startling episode Asking alms Young and
fair Uncomfortable moment Terrible story Fatal chains "And after?" How minister to a mind
diseased? Sunshine clouded Burden of life Any way of escape? Suggestions of past centuries The mighty
fallen 329
CHAPTER XXII. 24
CHAPTER XXIII.
IN ZARAGOZA.
Bygone days Sumptuous roosting Old exchange Traders of taste Glory of Aragon Cathedral of La
Seo Modernised exterior Interior charms and mesmerises Next to Barcelona Magnifice effect Parish
church Moorish ceiling Tomb of Bernardo de Aragon The old priest Waxes enthusiastic Supernatural
effect Statuette of Benedict XIII Mysterious chiaroscuro One exception Alonza the Warrior Moorish
tiles Bishop's palace Frugal meal Trace of old Zaragoza Fifteenth century house Juanita Streets of the
city Cæsarea Augusta Worship of the Virgin Alonzo the Moor Determined resistance Days of
struggle Falling Return to prosperity Fair maid of Zaragoza The Aljaferia Ancient palace of the Moorish
kings Injured by Suchet Salon of Santa Isabel Spanish café Four generations Lovely voice Lamartine's
Le Lac Recognised Reading between the lines Out in the night air An inspiration Night vision of El
Pilar In the far future 343
CHAPTER XXIII. 25