On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 893
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sweetness and unusual flavor. The stalks are
cutwhilethegrainsarestillmoistinside,the
grains charred over a small straw fire to
weaken the husks and add flavor, then eaten
freshordriedforkeeping(Turkishfirig,Arab
frikke).
Barley
Barley,Hordeumvulgare,mayhavebeenthe
firstcerealtobedomesticatedinthe
grasslandsofsouthwestAsia,whereitgrew
alongsidewheat.Ithastheadvantageofa
relativelyshortgrowingseasonandahardy
nature;it’sgrownfromtheArcticCircleto
thetropicalplainsofnorthernIndia.Itwasthe
primarycerealinancientBabylon,Sumeria,
Egypt,andtheMediterraneanworld,andwas
grownintheIndusvalleycivilizationof
westernIndialongbeforerice.Accordingto
Pliny,barleywasthespecialfoodofthe
gladiators,whowerecalledhordearii,or
“barleyeaters”;barleyporridge,theoriginal
polenta,wasmadewithroastedflaxseedand
coriander.IntheMiddleAges,andespecially
innorthernEurope,barleyandryewerethe
staplefoodsofthepeasantry,whilewheatwas
reservedfortheupperclasses.Inthemedieval
Arabworld,barleydoughwasfermentedfor
monthstoproduceasaltycondiment,murri,
thatfoodhistorianCharlesPerryhas
discoveredtastesmuchlikesoysauce.
Today,barleyisaminorfoodintheWest;
halfofproductionisfedtoanimals,anda
thirdisusedintheformofmalt.Elsewhere,
barleyismadeintovariousstapledishes,
includingtheTibetanroastedbarleyflour
tsampa,ofteneatensimplymoistenedwith
tea;it’sanimportantingredientinthe
Japanesefermentedsoypastemiso;andin
Morocco(thelargestpercapitaconsumer)
andothercountriesofnorthAfricaand
westernAsiait’susedinsoups,porridges,and
flatbreads.InEthiopiatherearewhite,black,
