On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1043
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batteriscarefullymixedtominimizegluten
formation,allowedtostandforanhouror
moretoallowtheproteinsanddamaged
starchtoabsorbwaterandairbubblestorise
andescape,andthencookedforjustacouple
ofminutesperside.InFrance,themilkin
crêpebatterissometimespartlyreplacedwith
beer,andwheatflourwithbuckwheat,
especiallyinBrittany.
Popovers
PopoversareanAmericanversionofEnglish
Yorkshirepudding,whichiscookedinthefat
renderedfromabeefroast.Thebatteris
almostidenticaltocrêpebatter,butadifferent
cookingmethodtransformsitintoalargeair
pocketsurroundedbyathinlayerofpastry.
Popoverbatterisvigorouslybeatento
incorporateairandcookedimmediately,
beforetheairbubbleshaveachanceto
escape.Thebatterispouredintoapreheated,
liberallyoiledpanandsetinahotoven.The
surfacesofthebattersetalmostimmediately.
Theairbubbleswithinthebatteraretrapped,
expandwiththerisingtemperature,coalesce
intoonelargebubble,andtheliquidbatter
balloonsarounditandsetsintoathinblister.
Whencookedinapanwithmanycups,
popoversriseunevenly,becausethecups
aroundtheoutsideheatfasterthantheonesin
themiddleofthepan.
GriddleCakes:Pancakes
andCrumpets
Griddlecakesaremadefromamorefloury,
viscousbatterthancrêpes,popovers,and
chouxpastry,andcanretaingascellsforthe
fewminutesthatittakestocookthem;so
theyriseonthehotpansurfaceanddevelop
anaerated,tenderstructure.Pancakesmaybe
leavened(andflavored)withyeast,orwith
whippedeggwhitesfoldedintothebatter,or
