On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 349

reaches 1%, the pH 4.5–5. High-temperature
fermentation tends to produce volatile acids
(acetic, butanoic) with a sharp aroma, while
low-temperature fermentation produces a
more complex blend of nutty aldehydes and
fruity esters (the traditional salami flavor).
The sausage may then be cooked and/or
smoked, and finally is dried for two to three
weekstothedesiredfinalmoisturecontent.A
powdery white coat of harmless molds and
yeasts (species ofPenicillium, Candida,
Debaromyces) may develop on the casing
during drying; these microbes contribute to
flavor and prevent the growth of spoilage
microbes.
Fermentedsausagesdevelopadense,
chewytexturethankstothesaltextractionof
themeatproteins,theirdenaturationbythe
bacterialacids,andtothegeneraldryingof
themeatmass.Theirtangy,aromaticflavor
comesfromthebacterialacidsandvolatile
molecules,andfromfragmentsofproteinand


fatgeneratedbyenzymesfromboththe
microbesandthemeat.
Confits

Inancienttimes,cooksfromcentralAsiato
westernEuropelearnedthatcookedmeat
couldbepreservedbyburyingitunderathick,

airtightsealoffat.Todaythebestknown
versionisthesouthwestFrenchconfitof
gooseandducklegs,whichbecame
fashionableinthe19thcenturyonthe
coattailsoffoiegras—whichmayinturn
havebeenanaccidentalby-productof
cramminggeesetogetthefatfor
unfashionablefarmhouseconfits!TheFrench
confitprobablybeganasahouseholdmethod
forpreservingporkinitsownlardthroughthe
yearfollowingtheautumnslaughter.The
confitofgooseandduckseemstohavebeen
developedbymakersofsaltedmeatsaround
Bayonneinthe18thcentury,whenlocal