On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1192

emulsifier and stabilizer molecules in the
sauce,butnotforcookedeggsaucesthathave
beenoverheatedandtheirproteinscoagulated.
The second and more reliable technique is to
start with a small amount of the continuous
phase,perhapssupplementedwithaneggyolk
and its wealth of emulsifiers and stabilizers,
andcarefullybeatthebrokensaucebackinto
it. If proteins in the initial sauce had
coagulated from overheating, the lumps
should be strained out before reemulsifying;
otherwise the rescue process may leave the
protein particles too small to strain out, but
large enough to leave a grainy impression in
themouth.
CreamandButterSauces

Creamandbutterdon’tneedtobemadeinto
sauces—theythemselvesaresauces!Infact
they’reprototypesforsaucesingeneral,with
theirlingering,mouthfillingconsistencyand


richbutdelicateflavor.Aramekinofmelted
butterinwhichtodipamorseloflobsteroran
artichokeleaf,apourofcreamoverfresh
berriesorpastry—thesearewonderful
combinations.Butcreamandbutterare
versatileingredients,andcookshavefound
otherwaystoexploittheminsaucemaking.
MilkandCreamEmulsions Cream owes its

versatility to its origins in milk. Milk is a
complexdispersionwhosecontinuousphaseis
water,andwhosedispersedphasesaremilkfat
in the form of microscopic droplets, or
globules, and protein particles in the form of
casein aggregates (p. 19). The droplets are
coated with a thin membrane of emulsifiers,
both lecithin-like phospholipids and certain
proteins; and other noncasein proteins float
freeinthewater.Boththeglobulemembranes
and the various proteins are tolerant of heat:
so plain milk and cream can be boiled hard
without the fat globules coalescing and