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Todaythedifferencebetweenwafersand
wafflesisamatteroftexture.Wafersarethin,
dry,crisp,andwhenhighinsugararedense,
almosthard.Themostfamiliarwaferisthe
icecreamcone;therearealsoFrenchcookies
calledgaufresthataresimilartoverythin,
crisptuiles.WafflescametotheUnitedStates
fromHollandinthe18thcenturyandare
thicker,lighter,andmoredelicatethanksto
leaveningbyeitheryeastorabakingpowder,
whichinterruptsthecookedstructurewithgas
bubbles.They’reservedfreshandhot,their
honeycombstructurefilledwithbutteror
syrup.
Modernwafflerecipesareoftenessentially
aleanpancakebattercookedinawaffleiron
insteadofonagriddle,andtheyoftenproduce
adisappointingresultthatismoreleathery
thancrisp.Crispnessrequiresahigh
proportionoffat,sugar,orboth:otherwisethe
batteressentiallysteamsratherthanfries,the
flourproteinsandstarchabsorbtoomuch
softeningwater,andthesurfaceendsup
tough.
CreamPuffPastry,
PâteÀChoux
ChouxistheFrenchwordfor“cabbage,”and
chouxpastryformslittleirregularcabbagelikeballsthatarehollowinsidelikepopovers.