On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1046

thepasteintohollowpuffs.Alargeamountof
waterandsomefatarebroughttotheboilina
pan,theflourisadded,andthemixturestirred
andcookedoverlowheatuntilitformsa
cohesiveballofdough.Severaleggsarethen
beatensequentiallyintothedoughuntilit
becomesverysoft,almostabatter.Thispaste
isthenformedintoballsorothershapesand
bakedinahotovenordeep-fried.Aswiththe
popover,thesurfacesetswhiletheinterioris
stillnearlyliquid,sothetrappedaircoalesces
andexpandsintoonelargebubble.
AnEarlyFrenchWaffleRecipe
WafflesofMilkorCream
Put a litron [13 oz/375 g] of flour in a
bowl, break in two or three eggs and mix
togetherwhileaddingsomecreamormilk
andapinchofsalt.Addapiecethesizeof
twoeggsoffreshlymadecreamcheese,or
simplysoftcheesefromwholemilk,anda


quarteron[4oz/125g]ofmeltedbutter.If
you only add a half quarteron of butter,
thatisenoughprovidedthatyouaddahalf
quarteron of good beef marrow crushed
verysmall.
Mix all this together, and when it is
wellbound,oneshouldputthewaffleirons
on the fire, and make the waffles. These
wafflesshouldbeeatenwhiletheyrehot.

LaVarenne,LeCuisinierfranỗois,1651
FryingBatters

Anumberoffoods,especiallyseafood,
poultry,andvegetables,aresometimescoated
withalayerofflourbatterbeforedeep-frying
(orsometimesbaking).Agoodbatteradheres
welltothefood,andfriesintoacrustthathas
along-lastingcrunchinessandthatreadily
breaksapartinthemouthwithoutanoily
residue.Problematicbattersfallawayduring
fryingorproduceacrustthatsgreasy,chewy,