On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 50

preventthefatfromseparating.Theresultis
processedmilkofnoparticularanimalor
farmorseason,andthereforeofnoparticular
character.Somesmalldairiespersistin
milkingotherbreeds,allowingtheirherdsout
topasture,pasteurizingmildly,andnot
homogenizing.Theirmilkcanhaveamore
distinctiveflavor,ararereminderofwhat
milkusedtotastelike.
Raw Milk Careful milking of healthy cows
yields sound raw milk, which has its own
fresh taste and physical behavior. But if it’s
contaminated by a diseased cow or careless
handling—theudderhangsrightnexttothe
tail — this nutritious fluid soon teems with
potentially dangerous microbes. The
importance of strict hygiene in the dairy has
been understood at least since the Middle
Ages, but life far from the farms made
contamination and even adulteration all too
common in cities of the 18th and 19th


centuries,wheremanychildrenwerekilledby
tuberculosis, undulant fever, and simple food
poisoningcontractedfromtaintedmilk.Inthe
1820s, long before anyone knew about
microbes, some books on domestic economy
advocatedboilingallmilkbeforeuse.Earlyin
the 20th century, national and local
governments began to regulate the dairy

industry and require that it heat milk to kill
diseasemicrobes.
TodayveryfewU.S.dairiessellrawmilk.
Theymustbecertifiedbythestateand
inspectedfrequently,andthemilkcarriesa
warninglabel.Rawmilkisalsorarein
Europe.
Pasteurization and UHT Treatments In the
1860s, the French chemist Louis Pasteur
studied the spoilage of wine and beer and
developed a moderate heat treatment that
preserved them while minimizing changes in
their flavor. It took several decades for