On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1047
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andtough,orsoftandmushy.
Battersincludesomekindofflour,aliquid
thatmightbewater,milk,orbeer,sometimes
achemicalleaveningtoprovidegasbubbles
andlightness,andofteneggs,whoseproteins
promoteadherencetothefoodandallowthe
useoflessflour.Ofalltheingredients,the
flourhasthelargestinfluenceonbatter
quality.Toomuchcanproduceatough,
breadycoating;toolittleanditwillbefragile.
Theglutenproteinsinordinarywheatflour
arevaluablefortheclinginesstheyprovide,
buttheyformelasticglutenandabsorbboth
moistureandfat,andsoareresponsiblefor
bothchewinessandoilinessinthefriedcrust.
Forthesereasons,moderate-proteinflours
makebetterbattersthanbreadflour,andsome
battersaremadefromothergrains,orfroma
mixtureofwheatflourandotherfloursor
starches.Riceproteinsdon’tformglutenand
absorblessmoistureandfat,sobattersthat
containasubstantialproportionofriceflour
frycrisperanddrier.Similarly,cornflour
improvescrispnessbecauseitsrelativelylarge
particlesarelessabsorbant,anditsproteins
dilutewheatglutenandreducethechewiness
ofthecrust.Addingsomepurecornstarch
alsoreducestheproportionandinfluenceof
wheatglutenproteins.Rootfloursand
starchesdon’tworkwellinbattersbecause
theirstarchgranulesgelateanddisintegrateat
relativelylowtemperatures,dosoearlyin
frying,andproduceasoftcrustthatgets
soggyquickly.
Battersadherebettertomoistfoodswhen
thefoodsarepredippedindryparticles,
whetherseasonedflourorbread-crumbs;the
dryparticlessticktothemoistsurface,and
themoistbatterthenclingstotherough
surfacecreatedbytheparticles.Battersare
morelikelytoproducecrisp,tendercrustsif
they’repreparedjustbeforefrying,withcold
liquidandlittlemixingtominimizewater
absorptionandglutendevelopment(see
