On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1048

Japanesetempura,p.214).Ifabatterstands
foralongtimebeforethefoodisdippedand
fried,manyofitsairandgasbubblescanleak
out,andsomeoftheremainingchemical
leaveningreactstooearly;theresultisa
densecasingratherthanalightpuff.
TheLogicofCreamPuffPastry
The technique for preparing cream puff
pastry may seem tediously elaborate, but
it’s a brilliant invention. It produces an
especially rich and moist paste that the
cook can shape and cook into a hollow,
crispvesselforotheringredients.Cooking
the flour with water and fat tenderizes the
gluten proteins, preventing them from
developing elasticity, and it swells and
gelates the starch to turn what would
normally be a batter into a dough. The
subsequent addition of raw eggs
contributes the richness of the yolks and
thecohesive,structure-buildingproteinsof


the whites, and thins the dough into a
nearbattersothatairpocketsintheinterior
will be able to move and coalesce during
cooking. During the baking, the fat helps
crispandflavortheoutersurface.Andboth
eggs and fat contribute to a structure that
resists moisture and stays crisp while
holdingthecreamfilling.

ThickBatterFoods:
BatterBreadsandCakes

BatterBreadsandMuffins

Batterbreadsandmuffinsaremoister,usually
sweeterversionsofquickbreads(p.549).
They’releavenedwithbakingpowderorsoda,
andoftencontainmoderateamountsofegg
andfatinadditiontosugar.Theydevelopa
dense,moisttexturethataccommodatesnuts,
driedfruits,andevensuchfreshfruitsand
vegetablesasapples,blueberries,carrotsand