On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 304

theycookquickly,andsuffermorefrom
overcooking.Grilledchopsandsteaksmaybe
justrightatthecenterbutdryelsewhere;
long-braisedpotroastsandstewsareoftendry
throughout.
Thecook’smarginoferrorincooking
meatisnarrowerthanitusedtobe.Soit’s
moreusefulthanevertounderstandhowthe
variousmethodsforcookingmeatwork,and
howbesttoapplythemtothemeatofthe21st
century.
ModifyingTextureBefore
andAfterCooking

Thereareanumberoftraditionaltechniques
thattenderizetoughmeatbeforecooking,so
thatthecookingitself,andthedryingofthe
musclefibers,canbeminimized.Themost
straightforwardoftheseistodamagethemeat
structurephysically,tofragmentthemuscle
fibersandconnective-tissuesheetsby


pounding,cutting,orgrinding.Piecesofveal
poundedintosheets(escalopes,scallopini)
arebothtenderizedandmadesothinthatthey
cookthroughinamoisture-sparingminuteor
two.Grindingthemeatintosmallpieces
createsanentirelydifferentsortoftexture:
thegentlygatheredgroundbeefinagood
hamburgerhasadelicatequalityquiteunlike

evenatendersteak.
Atraditionalandlabor-intensiveFrench
methodformodifyingtoughmeatislarding,
theinsertionofsliversofporkfatintothe
meatbymeansofhollowneedles.Inaddition
toaugmentingthemeat’sfatcontent,larding
alsobreakssomefibersandconnective-tissue
sheets.
Marinades Marinades are acidic liquids,
originally vinegar and now including such
ingredients as wine, fruit juices, buttermilk,
andyogurt,inwhichthecookimmersesmeat
for hours to days before cooking. They have