On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1100

rootwordmeaning“salt,”whichisthe
originalconcentratedflavoring,puremineral
crystalsfromthesea(p.639).Ourprimary
foods—animalflesh,grainsandbreadsand
pastas,starchyvegetables—areprettybland,
andcookshavefoundorinventedavastrange
ofingredientswithwhichtomakethemmore
flavorful.Thesimplestareseasonings
providedbynature:salt,pungentblackpepper
andchillis,sourjuicesofunripefruits,sweet
honeyandsugar,distinctivelyaromaticherbs
andspices.Morecomplexareprepared
condiments,manyofthemfoodspreserved
andtransformedbyfermentation:sourand
aromaticvinegar,saltyandsavorysoysauce
andfishsauce,saltyandsourpickles,pungent
andsourmustard,sweetandsourandfruity
ketchup.Andthentherearesauces,the
ultimatecomposedflavorings.Thecook
conceivesandpreparessaucesforparticular
dishes,andcangivethemanyflavor.They
alwaysincludeseasonings,sometimes


condiments,andsometimesartfully
intensifiedflavorsoftheprimaryfoods
themselves,orofotherfoods,orofthe
cookingprocess.
Inadditiontotheirheightenedflavor,
saucesgivetactilepleasurebythewaythey
moveinthemouth.Cooksconstructsaucesto

haveaconsistencysomewherebetweenthe
resistantsolidityofanimalorplanttissues
andtheelusivethinnessofwater.Thisisthe
consistencyoflusciousripefruitthatmeltsin
themouthandseemstofeeduswillingly,and
ofthefatsthatgiveapersistent,moist
fullnesstoanimalfleshandtocreamand
butter.Thefluidityofasauceallowsittocoat
thesolidfoodevenlyandlenditapleasing
moistness,whilethesubstantial,lingering
qualityhelpsthesauceclingtothefoodandto
ourtongueandpalateaswell,prolongingthe
experienceofitsflavorandprovidinga
sensationofrichness.
Alastpleasurethatasaucecanprovideis