On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1299

contentthanhardcandies,alargeproportion
ofcornsyrup,andthepresenceofmilkcasein
proteins.Thecharacteristiccaramelflavor
developsfromthemilkingredientsand
reactionsbetweentheseandthesyrupsugars
duringthecooking.InBritain,butterfor
toffeewasoftenstoredtodevelopsome
rancidity(fromfreebutyricacid),which
producedadesirablystrongerdairyflavorin
thefinishedcandy.(Americanchocolate
manufacturershavedonemuchthesame
thing;seebox,p.703).Thehigherthefat
content,thelessthesecandiessticktothe
teeth.
Caramelsarecookedtothelowest
temperatureofthenoncrystallinecandies,
havethehighestmoisturecontent,andarethe
softest.Toffeesandtaffiescontainlessbutter
andmilksolids—taffiessometimesnoneat
all—andarecooked50ºFhotterthan
caramels,sothey’remorefirm.Taffiesare
oftenpulledtoproduceanaerated,finely


crystalline,lessdense,lesschewyversion.
Caramelsmadewithdairyproductsowesome
oftheirflavortocaramelizedsugar,butthey
includeflavorsfromtheMaillardreactions.
Liketheterminology,caramelizedsugarand
dairyflavorsblendeasilywitheachother.
Thismaybeinpartbecauseoneofthe

importantproductsofsugarcaramelizationis
diacetyl,anaromaticchemicalthatprovides
thepronouncedbutteryaromaofcultured
butter(p.35).Caramelhasarich,complex
flavorandconsistency,viscousandstickyand
creamyallatonce,thatworkswellwithmost
sweetsandfruits,withcoffeeandchocolate,
andevenwithsalt:theprizedcaramelsof
Brittanyaremadewithanotabledoseofsea
salt.
Sugar Work The most spectacular sugar
preparations are those that take advantage of
sugar’s similarity to glass: its transparency
andcapacitytobesculpted,blown,anddrawn