On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 756

Stimulation and Sensitizing We may also
enjoyspicyfoodbecauseirritationaddsanew
dimensiontotheexperienceofeating.Recent
researchhasfoundthat,atleastinthecaseof
the pepper and chilli irritants, there’s a lot
more to pungency than a simple burn. These
compounds induce a temporary inflammation
in the mouth, transforming it into an organ
thatismore“tender,”moresensitivetoother
sensations. Those heightened sensations
include touch, temperature, and the irritating
aspectsofvariousotheringredients,including
salt, acids, carbonation (which becomes
carbonic acid), and alcohol. It’s the pepper
that makes Chinese hot and sour soup, which
is hot and acidic and salty, into such an
intense experience. A few mouthfuls and we
become conscious of simply breathing: our
mouth becomes so sensitive that exhaling
body-temperatureairfeelslikeatexturedhot
bath, inhaling room-temperature air like a
refreshinglycoolbreeze.


Examples of pungent flavor compounds.
capsaicin
Strongpungencyactuallydiminishesour
sensitivitytotruetastes—tosweetness,
tartness,saltiness,bitterness—andtoaroma,
inpartbecauseitusurpssomeoftheattention
ourbrainswouldnormallypaytotheseother

sensations.Oursensitivitytopungent
flavoringsalsodeclineswithexposuretoit,
andthatdesensitizationlastsfor2–4days.
Thisispartofthereasonthatregularchillieaterscantoleratehotterdishesthanpeople
whoenjoypungentfoodonlyoccasionally.
Herbs,Spices,andHealth