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essentialrolesofmicrobesandoxygeninthe
traditionalOrléansprocess(p.773).Modern
methodsforgrowingbaker’syeastand
producingpenicillinwereadaptedtovinegar
manufactureafterWorldWarII,andnow
producefinishedvinegarinadayortwo.
TheVirtuesofAceticAcid
Aceticacidcontributestwodifferentflavor
elementstofoods.Oneisitsacidityonthe
tongue,andtheotherisitscharacteristic
aromainthenose,whichcanintensifytoa
kindofstartlingpungency,particularlywhen
thevinegarisheated.Thevinegarmolecule
canexistintwoforms:astheintactmolecule,
andbrokenintoitsmainportionandafree
hydrogenion.Thehydrogeniongivesthe
mainimpressionofacidity,whileonlythe
intactmoleculeisvolatileandcanescape
fromthevinegarorfood,travelthroughthe
air,andreachthenose.Boththeintactand
“dissociated”formscoexistsidebyside,in
proportionsthataredeterminedbytheir
chemicalsurroundings.Ifthefoodisalready
acidic—thankstothepresenceoftartaric
acidinwinevinegar,forexample—thenless
oftheaceticaciddissociates,moreisintact
andvolatile,andthevinegararomais
stronger.