On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1200

isoil—andisusuallydenseandtoostiffto
pour.Itcanbethinnedandflavoredwith
variouswater-basedliquids,includingpurees
andstocks,oritcanenrichsuchliquidsthe
waycreamdoes;itcanalsobeaeratedwith
theadditionofwhippedcreamoreggwhites.
Asaroom-temperaturepreparation,
mayonnaiseisgenerallyservedwithcold
dishesofvarioussorts.Butthankstotheyolk
proteins,italsoreactsusefullytoheat.It
lendsbodyandrichnesswhenaddedtothin
brothsandbrieflycooked;andwhenlayered
ontofishorvegetablesandbroiled,it
moderatestheheat,puffsupandsetsintoa
richcoating.
Traditionally,mayonnaiseismadewith
raweggyolks,andthereforecarriesaslight
riskofsalmonellainfection.Manufacturers
usepasteurizedyolks,andcooksconcerned
aboutsalmonellacannowfindpasteurized
eggsinsupermarkets.Bothvinegarandextravirginoliveoilkillbacteria,butmayonnaise


isbesttreatedasahighlyperishablefoodthat
shouldbeservedimmediatelyorkept
refrigerated.
Making Mayonnaise All of the ingredients
for making mayonnaise should be at room
temperature; warmth speeds the transfer of
emulsifiers from the yolk particles to the oil
droplet surfaces. The simplest method is to

mix together everything but the oil — egg
yolks,lemonjuiceorvinegar,salt,mustard—
and then whisk in the oil, slowly at first and
more rapidly as the emulsion thickens.
However, the cook can produce more stable
smalldropletsbywhiskingaportionoftheoil
into just the yolks and salt to start, and then
adding the remaining ingredients when the
emulsion gets stiff and needs to be thinned.
Thesaltcausestheyolkgranulestofallapart
intoitscomponentparticles,whichmakesthe
yolks become both more clear and more
viscous. If left undiluted, this viscosity will