On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1204

hollandaiseandbéarnaise,eachwithits
advantagesanddisadvantages.
Cooktheeggandwater-based
ingredientsfirsttoathickconsistency,
thenwhiskinpatsofwholebutterto
emulsifythebutterfatandthinthe
continuousphase.ThisisCarême’s
method,andisthetrickiestbecausethe
smallvolumeoftheinitialeggmixtureis
easilyovercooked.
Warmtheyolksandwater-based
ingredients,whiskineitherwholeor
clarifiedbutter,thencookthemixture
untilitreachesthedesiredconsistency.
ThisisEscoffier’smethod,andhasthe
advantagethatthecookcancontrolthe
finalconsistencydirectly,andbyheating
theentirevolumeofsauce.
Putalloftheingredientsforthesaucein
acoldsaucepan,turntheheatonlow,and
startstirring.Thebuttergraduallymelts
andreleasesitselfintotheeggphaseas


bothheatuptogether,andthecookthen
continuestoheattheformedsauceuntil
itreachesthedesiredconsistency.Thisis
thesimplestmethod.
Don’tcooktheyolksatall;justwarm
themandthewater-basedingredients
abovethemeltingpointofbutter,then

whiskclarifiedbutterinuntilthe
crowdingofdropletscreatesthedesired
consistency.Thisisessentiallyabutter
mayonnaise,andeliminatesthe
possibilityofovercookingtheyolks.
Makethebutter-sauceversionofa
sabayon(p.639).Whisktheeggyolks
andsomewaterwhileheatingthemuntil
theyformanairyfoam,andthengently
incorporatemeltedorclarifiedbutterand
thelemonjuiceoracidreduction.This
versionisofcoursemuchlighter,andis
alsomadewithlessbutterperyolk.
It’s possible to make hot egg sauces with