On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1205

fats and oils other than butter, and to flavor
the water phase with meat reductions or
vegetablepurees.
AlternativeOilEmulsions
These days we think of mayonnaise
exclusivelyasanegg-emulsifiedsauce,but
thishasn’talwaysbeenthecase,andthere
are a number of other ways to form and
stabilizeaflavorfuloilemulsion.In1828,
perhaps a few decades after the supposed
invention of mayonnaise, the great chef
and sauce-systematizer Antonin Carême
gave three recipes formagnonnaise
blanche, only one of which includes egg
yolks.Theothersaremadewithaladleful
of starchy velouté or béchamel sauce, and
with a gelatinous reduced extract of veal
meat and bones. In these versions, gelatin
and milk proteins (in the béchamel) are
emulsifiers, and starch is a stabilizer.
Someversionsoftheherb-flavoredItalian


salsa verde, green sauce, emulsify olive
oilwithahard-boiledyolkandbread.The
Provenỗalaùoli and Greekskorthaliỏ are
emulsifiedwithacombinationofpounded
garlic and cooked potato; garlic and bread
arealsoused,asarefreshcheeses.Noneof
these ingredients is as effective at
emulsifying and stabilizing as a raw egg

yolk,sotheywillemulsifylessoilandthe
sauceswilltendtoleaksomefreeoil.
HoldingandSalvagingHotEggSauces
Buttersaucesneedtobekeptwarmtoprevent
thebutterfromsolidifying,andarebestheld
ataround145ºF/63ºCtodiscouragethegrowth
ofbacteria.Becausetheeggproteinsslowly
continuetobondtoeachotheratthis
temperature,thecookshouldstirthesauce
occasionallytokeepitfromthickening.The
containershouldbecoveredtopreventthe
sauce’smoisturefromevaporatingand
overcrowdingthefatdroplets,andtoprevent
theformationofaproteinskinonthesurface.