On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1006
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tofindareplacementthatclosely
approximatestheoriginal.Theboxonp.530
liststhecompositionsofcommonwheat
flours.
Wholewheatfloursarehighinprotein,but
asignificantfractionofthatproteincomes
fromthegermandaleuronelayeranddoesnot
formgluten;andgermandbranparticles
interferewithglutenformation.They
thereforetendtomakedensebutflavorful
breads.Breadfloursarehighinstronggluten
proteins,andgivethelightest,highest,and
chewiestloafbreads.Bothpastryandcake
flourshavelowlevelsofweakglutenprotein
formakingtenderbakedgoods.Cakeflouris
distinctivebecauseit’streatedwithchlorine
dioxideorchlorinegas.Thistreatmenthas
severaleffectsonthestarchgranulesthatare
usefulincakemaking(p.555),andleavesa
traceofhydrochloricacidintheflour,which
givesbattersanddoughsanacidpHand
slightlyacidtaste.
“Self-rising”floursarefloursthatcontain
bakingpowder(11/2teaspoonsbakingpowder
percupflour/5–7gmper100g),andtherefore
don’trequireaddedleaveningforthemaking
ofquickbreads,pancakes,andother
chemicallyraisedfoods.“Instant”or
“instantized”flours(twobrandnamesare
Shake&BlendandWondra)arelow-protein
flourswhosestarchgranuleshavebeen
precookeduntiltheygelate,thendriedagain.
Theprecookinganddryingmakeiteasierfor
watertopenetratethemagainduringcooking.
Instantfloursarewellsuitedtotenderpastries
andlast-minutethickeningofsaucesand
gravies.
DoughandBatter
Ingredients:Yeasts
andChemicalLeavenings
Leaveningsaretheingredientsthatfilldoughs
andbatterswithbubblesofgas,thusreducing
