On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 761
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watermoleculesinabatchofherbsreachthe
boilingpointwithinafewsecondsandbegin
toescapefromtheleaves,whilethestructures
containingtheoil-likeflavorcompounds
(glandsandcanals,pp.402and407)heatup
moregraduallyandindirectly,viatheheatof
thewatermolecules.Theherbsdryinamatter
ofafewminutes,withlessdrasticflavor
lossesthanresultfromordinaryovendrying.
CookingWithHerbs
andSpices
Herbsandspicesaregenerallycookedalong
withotheringredients,andasarelatively
minorcomponentofthemixture,1%orless
ofthetotalweight.Thissectionexploresthe
extractionandtransformationofflavorin
suchdishes.Butsomepreparationsrelyon
flavoringstoprovidemorethanjustflavor(p.
401).Andanumberofherbs—parsley,sage,
basil—aredeliciousontheirown,deep-fried
justlongenoughtobecomecrispandmellow
theirflavor.
FlavorExtraction
Forherbsandspicestoprovideuswithflavor,
cooksmustfindwaystoliberatetheflavor
chemicalsfromwithintheirtissueandconvey
themtoourtasteandodorreceptors.For
fragileherbs,thismaybeassimpleas
strewingthefreshleavesonthedish,asin
Vietnamesesoups:theeaterliberatesthe
aromasbychewingontheleaves,andenjoys
themattheirfreshest.Butiftheflavorsareto
beincorporatedintothedish,thentheflavor
compoundsmustsomehowescapefromthe
herborspice.Thecookmayleavethe
flavoringintactanduseliquidsandheatto
encouragetheflavorstoseepoutgradually,or
hemaybreakitintoparticles—chopping
freshherbs,crumblingdryones,grinding
spices—toexposetheflavormolecules
