On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1206
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Curdledeggsaucescanberescuedby
strainingoutthesolidbitsofprotein,keeping
thewholemesswarm,beginningwithanother
warmeggyolkandonetablespoon/15ml
water,andslowlywhiskingthesauceintothe
newyolk.Thesametechniquewillrevivea
saucethathasbeenrefrigeratedandsohadits
butterfatcrystallized;thecrystalsmeltto
formfatpuddleswhenthesauceissimply
rewarmed.
Vinaigrettes
AWater-in-OilEmulsionThemost
commonlyandeasilymadeemulsifiedsauce
isthesimpleoil-and-vinegarsaladdressing
knownasvinaigrette,fromtheFrenchword
for“vinegar.”Vinaigrettedoesagoodjobof
clingingtolettuceleavesandother
vegetables,andlendingarefreshingtart
counterpointtotheirtaste.Thestandard
proportionsforavinaigretteare3partsoilto
1vinegar,similartotheproportionsin
mayonnaise,butthepreparationismuch
simpler.Theliquidsandotherflavorings—
salt,pepper,herbs—areoftensimplyshaken
intoacloudy,temporaryemulsionatthelast
minute,thenpouredontoandmixedwiththe
salad.Whenmadeinthiscasualway,a
vinaigretteistheoddsauceout:insteadof
beingoildropletsdispersedinwater,it’s
water(vinegar)dropletsdispersedinoil.
Withoutthehelpofanemulsifier,onepartof
watersimplycannotaccommodatethreeparts
ofoil,sothemorevoluminousphase,theoil,
becomesthecontinuousphase.
Therearegoodreasonsformakingoilthe
continuousphaseofavinaigrette,andfornot
worryingaboutthestabilityoftheemulsion.
Wheremanysaucesareservedunderoratop
largepiecesoffood,oil-and-vinegar
emulsionsareusedalmostexclusivelyas
saladdressings,whoseroleistoprovidea
veryfineandevencoatfortheextensive
