On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 411
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TheEffectsofHeatonFishProteinsand
Texture
GentleHeatandCloseAttentionInpractice,
it’salltooeasytoovershoottheideal
temperaturerangeforfish.Ittakesonlya
matterofsecondstoovercookathinfillet.
Twocharacteristicsoffishaddtothe
trickinessofcookingthemwell.First,whole
fishandfilletsarethickatthecenterandtaper
downtonothingattheedges:sothinareas
overcookwhilethethickareascookthrough.
Andsecond,fishvarywidelyintheir
chemicalandphysicalcondition,and
thereforeintheirresponsetoheat.Thefillets
ofcod,bluefish,andotherspeciesoftensuffer
fromsomedegreeofgaping,separationsof
musclelayersthroughwhichheatpenetrates
morerapidly.Suchfishastuna,swordfish,
andsharkhaveverydenseflesh,crammedfull
ofprotein(around25%),whichabsorbsalot
ofheatbeforeitstemperaturerises;less
activemembersofthecodfamilygetbywith
lessprotein(15–16%)intheirmuscle,and
cookmorerapidly.Fattransfersheatmore
slowlythanprotein,sofattyfishtakelonger
tocookthanleanfishofthesamesize.And
theverysamespeciesoffishcanbeproteinorfat-richonemonth,depletedandquickly
heatedthenext.
Thereareseveralwaystoworkaround
theseinherentobstaclesanduncertainties:
Cookthefishthroughwiththegentlest
possibleheat,sothattheouterportions
aren’tbadlyovercooked.Ovenbaking
andpoachingwellbelowtheboilaretwo
goodwaystodothis,afteraninitialand
