On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 12
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Kitchen.
AsIfinished,Irealizedthatcooksmore
seriousthanmyfriendsandImightbe
skepticalabouttherelevanceofcellsand
moleculestotheircraft.SoIspentmuchof
theintroductiontryingtobolstermycase.I
beganbyquotinganunlikelytrioof
authorities,Plato,SamuelJohnson,andJean
AnthelmeBrillat-Savarin,allofwhom
suggestedthatcookingdeservesdetailedand
seriousstudy.Ipointedoutthata19thcentury
Germanchemiststillinfluenceshowmany
peoplethinkaboutcookingmeat,andthat
aroundtheturnofthe20thcentury,Fannie
Farmerbeganhercookbookwithwhatshe
called“condensedscientificknowledge”
aboutingredients.Inotedacoupleoferrorsin
moderncookbooksbyMadeleineKamman
andJuliaChild,whowereaheadoftheirtime
intakingchemistryseriously.AndIproposed
thatsciencecanmakecookingmore
interestingbyconnectingitwiththebasic
workingsofthenaturalworld.
Alothaschangedintwentyyears!It
turnedoutthatOnFoodandCookingwas
ridingarisingwaveofgeneralinterestin
food,awavethatgrewandgrew,andknocked
downthebarriersbetweenscienceand
cooking,especiallyinthelastdecade.Science
hasfounditswayintothekitchen,and
cookingintolaboratoriesandfactories.
In2004foodloverscanfindthescienceof
cookingjustabouteverywhere.Magazines
andnewspaperfoodsectionsdevoteregular
columnstoit,andtherearenowanumberof
booksthatexploreit,withShirleyCorriher’s
1997CookWiseremainingunmatchedinthe
wayitintegratesexplanationandrecipes.
Todaymanywritersgointothetechnical
detailsoftheirsubjects,especiallysuch
intricatethingsaspastry,chocolate,coffee,
beer,andwine.Kitchensciencehasbeenthe
subjectoftelevisionseriesairedintheUnited
States,Canada,theUnitedKingdom,and
