On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1208
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itsstructuretocollapse.)
Inventivecooksnowmakevinaigrettes
withavarietyoffats,includingflavorsome
oliveandnutoils,neutralvegetableandseed
oils,meltedbutter,andevenhotmeatand
poultryfats(pork,duck);thewaterphasemay
containvegetableorfruitjuicesorpurees,
meatjuicesorstockreductions;andthe
dropletsmaybeemulsifiedorstabilizedby
thoroughpulverizingtoasmallsizeina
blender,orwithpoundedherbsorspices,
vegetablepurees,mustard,gelatin,orcream.
Today’svinaigretteisaveryversatilekindof
sauce!
Bottledsaladdressingsthatlooklike
vinaigrettesaregenerallystabilizedandgiven
bodywithstarchorcarbohydrategums,which
inlow-fatversionscanproduceaslimy
consistency.
SaucesThickened
withBubbles:Foams
Likeemulsions,foamsareadispersionofone
fluidinanother.Inthecaseoffoams,thefluid
isnotaliquid,butagas,andthedispersed
particlesarenotdroplets,butbubbles.Still,
thebubblesdothesamethingthatdropletsdo
inasauce:theygetinthewayofwater
moleculesinthesauce,preventthemfrom
flowingeasily,andthusgivethesauceasa
wholeathickerbody.Atthesametime,they
providetwouniquecharacteristics:alarge
surfaceareaincontactwithairthatcan
enhancethereleaseofaromastothenose;and
alightinsubstantialityandevanescencethat
offersarefreshingcontrasttothetextureof
nearlyanyfoodtheyaccompany.
There’soneclassicfoamsauce,the
sabayon,whichismadebycookingand
whippingeggyolksatthesametimetoforma
stablemassofbubbles.Andbothwhipped
creamandwhippedeggwhitescanbefolded
withtheirbubblesintoanywater-basedsauce.
Butcooksnowadaysmakefoamsfromall
