On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1459
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Traditional balsamic vinegar is applied by
thedroptoavarietyofdishes,fromsalads
and grilled meats and fish to fruits and
cheese. Mass-produced versions are added
inlargerquantitiestolenddepthofflavor
tosoupsandstews,andtomakemellower
vinaigrette dressings than plain wine
vinegardoes.
MakingTraditionalBalsamicVinegar
Traditionalbalsamicvinegarbeginswithwine
grapes:whiteTrebbiano,redLambrusco,and
anumberofothervarietiesareused.Their
juiceisboileduntilthevolumeisreducedby
aboutathird.Boilingremovesenoughwater
toconcentratethejuicetoaround40%
dissolvedsugarsandacids,andbeginsthe
sequenceofbrowningreactionsbetween
sugarsandproteinsthatgeneratebothrich
flavorandcolor(p.778).Thejuiceisthen
placedinthefirstofasequenceof
progressivelysmallerbarrels,oftenmade
fromavarietyofwoods(oak,chestnut,
cherry,juniper),whicharekeptinanatticor
otherlocationwherethey’reexposedtothe
variationsandextremesofthelocalclimate.
Insummerheat,theconcentratedsugarsand
aminoacidsreactwitheachothertoproduce
aromamoleculesmorecommonlyfoundin
roastedandbrownedfoods,andthe
fermentationproductsandby-productsreact
witheachothertoformaheadymixture.As
evaporationcontinuestoremovewaterand
concentratethemust(about10%ofthebarrel
disappearseachyear),eachbarrelis
replenishedwithmustfromthenextyounger
barrel.Finishedvinegar,whoseaverageage
mustbeaminimumof12years,isremoved
fromtheoldestbarrel.Accordingtoone
estimate,ittakesabout70lb/36kgofgrapes
tomake1cup/250mloftraditionalbalsamic
vinegar.
Noticethatthere’snoinitialalcoholic
fermentationbeforetheacetificationbegins.
Instead,amixedcultureofyeastsandbacteria
