On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1060
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Gravity keeps the cake structure stretched to
its maximum volume while the walls of the
gas cells firm and develop cracks that allow
the pressure inside and outside the cells to
equalize.
Cakeskeepforseveraldaysatroom
temperature,andtheycanberefrigeratedor
frozen.Theystalemoreslowlythanbread,
thankstothepresenceofemulsifiersandtheir
highproportionsofmoisture,fat,and
moisture-retainingsugar.
Pastries
Pastriesbearlittlefamilyresemblanceto
cakesorbreadsorpastas.They’reavery
differentexpressionofthenatureofthewheat
grain.Inmakingotherdoughandbatterfoods,
weusewatertofusetheparticlesofwheat
flourintoanintegratedmassofglutenand
starchgranules,andfurtherknitthatmass
togetherwithcooking.Bycontrast,pastryis
anexpressionofthefragmentary,
discontinuous,particulatequalitiesofwheat
flour.Weusejustenoughwatertomakea
cohesivedoughfromtheflour,andworkin
largeamountsoffattocoatandseparateflour
particlesanddoughregionsfromeachother.
Cookinggelateshalforlessofthewaterdeprivedstarch,andproducesadrymassthat
readilycrumblesorflakesinthemouth,
releasingthefat’scomplementarymoist
richness.
Manypastriesarenotpreparedandeaten
ontheirownasotherdoughandbatterfoods
are.Insteadtheyserveasacontrasting
containerforamoistfilling,whethersavory
(quiche,pâté,meatpies,vegetabletarts)or
sweet(fruitpiesandtarts,creams,custards).
Thecontainermaybeopen,asintartsand
open-facedpies,acloseddouble-crustpie,or
fullyenclosedturnovers—samosas,
empanadas,pasties,pierogi,piroshki.Wealso
usetheterm“pastry”forwhatareessentially
