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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1460

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simultaneouslyconvertsaportionofthe
abundantgrapesugarsintoalcohol,andthat
alcoholintoaceticacid.Theseconversions
proceedslowly,overthecourseofseveral
years,becausethehighconcentrationofgrape
sugarsandacidsinhibitsthegrowthofall
microbes.Thealcoholicfermentationis
carriedoutbyunusualyeasts,
Zygosaccharomycesbailiiorbisporus,that
areadaptedtosurvivinginenvironmentshigh
insugarsandinaceticacid.Atthesametime
thatthetwofermentationstakeplace,sodo
theprocessesofmaturationandaging.
Intheend,traditionalbalsamicvinegar
maycontainanywherefrom20to70%
unfermentedsugars,about8%aceticand4%
tartaric,malic,andothernonvolatileacids,an
aroma-enhancing1%alcohol,andupto12%
glycerol,aproductoftheyeastfermentation
thatcontributestothevelvetyviscosity.
The“condiment”gradesofbalsamic
vinegararemademuchmorerapidlythanthe


traditionalgrade,andarefarlessconcentrated
andfine-flavored.Thebettermass-produced
vinegarsincludesomecooked-downgrape
mustandyoungbalsamicvinegar,andare
agedforayearorso.Cheapbalsamicvinegars
arenomorethanordinarywinevinegar
coloredwithcaramelandsweetenedwith


sugar.
SherryVinegar

Astyleofvinegarthatliessomewhere
betweenordinarywinevinegarandbalsamic
vinegaristhesolera-agedsherryvinegarof
Spain.Thisstartsfromtheyoungsherrywine,
whichcontainsnoresidualsugar.Likesherry
winesandbalsamicvinegars,sherryvinegaris
blendedwitholderbatchesandmaturedfor
yearsordecadesinaseriesofpartly-filled
barrels.Theconcentrationbyevaporation,and
extendedcontactwithmicrobesandwood,
leavesherryvinegarwithhighlevelsof



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