On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 413

box,p.212)arebesteithercookedquicklyto
an enzyme-killing but somewhat drying
160ºF/70ºC, or else cooked to a lower
temperatureandservedimmediately.
PreparationsforCooking

CleaningandCuttingMostfishinU.S.
marketsaresoldprecleanedandprecut.This
iscertainlyconvenient,butitalsomeansthat
thescaledandcutsurfaceshavebeenexposed
totheairandbacteriaforhoursordays,
dryingoutanddevelopingoff-flavors.
Preparingfishatthelastminutecangive
fresherresults.Bothwholefishandpieces
shouldberinsedthoroughlyincoldwaterto
removefragmentsofinnerorgans,the
accumulationofodorousTMA,otherbacterial
by-products,andbacteriathemselves.
Presalting Japanese cooks briefly presalt
most fish and shrimp to remove surface


moisture and odor and firm the outer layers.
This is especially useful for getting fish skin
to crisp and brown quickly when fried.As is
trueformeats,presoakingfishandshellfishin
a 3–5% salt brine will cause the flesh to
absorbbothwaterandsalt,withmoisturizing
andtenderizingresults(p.155).
TechniquesforCookingFishandShellfish

Themanymethodsforheatingmeatsandfish
aredescribedindetailinthepreviouschapter,
pp.156–65.Briefly,“dry”heatingmethods—
grilling,frying,baking—producesurface
temperatureshighenoughtoproducethe
colorsandflavorsofthebrowningreactions,
while“moist”techniques—steaming,
poaching—failtotriggerbrowning,butheat
foodsmorerapidlyandcansupplyflavors
fromotheringredients.(Chinesecooksoften
getthebestofbothmethodsbyfirstfryinga
fishandthenfinishingitwithabriefbraisein