On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1062

flakes.
Laminatedpastries—puffpastry,
phyllo,strudel—areconstructedof
large,separate,verythinlayersthat
shatterinthemouthintosmall,delicate
shards.
Laminatedbreads—croissants,Danish
pastries—combinethelayeringofthe
laminatedpastrieswiththesoft
chewinessofbread.
These varied structures and textures depend
on two key elements: the way the fat is
incorporated into the dough, and the
development of the flour gluten. Pastry
makers work fat in so that it either isolates
very small dough particles from each other,
isolateslargermassesorevenwholesheetsof
dough from each other, or both. And pastry
cookscarefullycontrolglutendevelopmentto
avoidmakingadoughthat’shardtoshapeand
a pastry that’s tough and chewy instead of


tenderanddelicate.
PastryIngredients

FloursPastriesaremadefromseveral
differentkindsofflour.Acrumblytexture,
whichrequiresminimalglutendevelopment,
isbestobtainedwithapastryflourmoderately
lowinprotein;someproteinisnecessaryto

providecontinuityinthedoughparticles,or
thepastrycomesoutchalkyratherthan
crumbly.Flakinessandthelaminated
structureofpuffpastrydependoncontrolled
glutendevelopment,andcanbeachievedwith
pastryflourorwithflourofahigherprotein
content,theequivalentofU.S.nationalallpurposeflours(11–12%).Highlystretched
strudelandphyllocanbenefitfromthevery
highproteincontentofbreadfloursandthe
strongglutentheyform.