On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 218
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souffléeinrestaurants.Thegreat19thcentury
chefAntoninCarêmecalledthereinforced
soufflé“thequeenofhotpastries,”butalso
sawitssuccessasthetriumphofconvenience
andstabilityovertheomelettesoufflée’s
incomparabledelicacyoftextureandflavor.
Carêmewrote,“Theomelettesouffléemustbe
freeoftheconcoctionthatgoesintothe
soufflé,whetheritbericeflourorstarch.The
gourmetmusthavethepatiencetowaitifhe
wishestoeattheomelettesouffléeinallits
perfection.”
Convenienceiscertainlyonereasonforthe
soufflé’spopularityamongcooks.Itcanbe
largelypreparedinadvance,evenprecooked
andreheated.Versatilityisanother.Soufflés
canbemadefrompracticallyeverysortof
food—pureedfruitsandvegetablesandfish;
cheese,chocolate,liqueurs—andinabroad
rangeoftextures,fromthepuddingliketothe
meltinglyfragilesouffléàlaminute,whichis
Carême’sstarch-freeomelettesouffléebarely
altered.
EarlyRecipesfortheOmeletteSoufflée
andSoufflé
This 18th century recipe for the omelette
souffléeisaninterestingmixofsavoryand
sweet ingredients, while the timbales are
soufflésreinforcedwithpastrycream.
OmeletteSouffléewithVealKidney
Takearoastedvealkidney,chopwithits
fat;putinacasseroleandcookfora
momenttobreakapart.Thenoffthefire
addalargespoonfulofsweetcreamanda
dozeneggyolks,whosewhitesyouwill
whip;seasonthemixturewithsalt,minced
parsley,mincedcandiedlemonpeel.Whip
youreggwhitesintosnow,mixwiththe
rest,andbeatwell.Thenputapieceof
butterinapan,andwhenithasmelted
pourinyourmixture,andcookgently.
Holdared-hotfireironaboveit.Then
