On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 219
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invertitontotheservingplatterandputit
onasmallstove,sothatitwillriseup;
whenrisentoahandsomeenoughheight,
powderwithsugarandglazewiththefire
ironwithouttouchingtheomelette.Serve
hotasanentremet.
TimbalesofCream
Youwillhaveagoodpastrycream,bitteralmondbiscuits,candiedlemonpeel,
orangeflower;addtotheseeggwhites
whippedintosnow.Youwillhavelittle
timbaledishesgreasedwithgoodfresh
butter:youpowderthemwithbread
crumbs;thenyoufillthemwithyour
cream,andcookthemintheoven.When
theyaredone,turnthemoutandserveasa
smallhotentremet.
—VincentLaChapelle,LeCuisinier
moderne,1742
TheSouffléPrinciple,UpSide:ItMustRise
Thephysicallawthatanimatesthesoufflé
wasdiscoveredafewdecadesafterits
inventionby—appropriately—aFrench
scientistandballoonist,J.A.C.Charles.
Charles’slawisthis:allelseequal,the
volumeoccupiedbyagivenweightofgasis
proportionaltoitstemperature.Heatan
inflatedballoonandtheairwilltakeupmore
space,sotheballoonexpands.Similarly,puta
souffléintheovenanditsairbubblesheatup
andswell,sothemixexpandsintheonly
directionitcan:outthetopofthedish.
Charles’slawispartofthestory,butnot
thewholestory—itaccountsforabouta
quarterofthetypicalsoufflérise.Therest
comesfromthecontinuousevaporationof
waterfromthebubblewallsintothebubbles.
Asportionsofthesouffléapproachthe
boilingpoint,moreliquidwaterbecomes
watervaporandaddstothequantityofgas
moleculesinthebubbles,whichincreasesthe
pressureonthebubblewalls,whichcausesthe
wallstostretchandthebubblestoexpand.
