On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 321
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braisedorstewedmeathasbeenheatedvery
gentlyandgraduallyisadistinctredcolor
throughoutthemeat,eventhoughit’swell
done:thesameslowheatingthatallowsmeat
enzymestotenderizeandflavorthemeatalso
allowsmoreofthemyoglobinpigmentto
remainintact(p.149).
GuidelinesforSucculentBraisesand
Stews
Amoist,tenderbraiseorstewresultsfrom
the cook’s cumulative attention to several
details of procedure. The most important
rule: never let the meat interior get
anywhereneartheboil.
Keepthemeatasintactaspossibleto
minimizecutsurfacesthroughwhich
fluidscanescape.
Ifthemeatmustbecut,cutitinto
relativelylargepieces,atleastan
inch/2.5cmonaside.
Brownthemeatveryquicklyinahotpan
sothattheinsideofthemeatwarmsonly
slightly.Thiskillsmicrobesonthemeat
surfaces,andcreatesflavor.
Startthepotwithmeatandcooking
liquidinacoldoven,thepotlidajarto
allowsomeevaporation,andsetthe
thermostatto200ºF/93ºC,sothatitheats
thestewtoaround120ºF/50ºCslowly,
overtwohours.
Raisetheoventemperatureto
250ºF/120ºCsothatthestewslowly
warmsfrom120ºFto180ºF/80ºC.
Afteranhour,checkthemeateveryhalf
hour,andstopthecookingwhenitis
easilypenetratedbythetinesofafork.
Letthemeatcoolinthestew,whereit
willreabsorbsomeliquid.
Theliquidwillprobablyneedtobe
reducedbyboilingtoimproveflavorand
consistency.Removethemeatfirst.
WaterVapor:Steaming
