On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1016
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PreparingTheDough:
MixingandKneading
MixingThefirststepinmakingbreadisto
mixtheingredientstogether.Themoment
flourmeetswater,severalprocessesbegin.
Brokenstarchgranulesabsorbwater,and
enzymesdigesttheirexposedstarchinto
sugars.Theyeastcellsfeedonthesugars,
producingcarbondioxideandalcohol.The
gluteninproteinsabsorbsomewaterand
sprawloutintotheirelongatedcoils;thecoils
ofneighboringmoleculesformmanyweak
bondswitheachotherandthusformthefirst
strandsofgluten.Weseethedoughtakeona
vaguelyfibrousappearance,andfeelitcohere
toitself.Whenit’sstirredwithaspoon,the
proteinaggregatesaredrawntogetherinto
visiblefilamentsandformwhathasbeen
vividlydescribedasa“shaggymass.”Atthe
sametime,anumberofsubstancesinthe
flourcausebreaksinandblockingoftheend-
to-endbondsoftheglutenmolecules,andso
aninitialshorteningoftheglutenchains.As
oxygenfromtheairandoxidizingcompounds
fromtheyeastsenterthedough,thebreaking
andblockingstop,andtheglutenmolecules
begintobondend-to-endandformlong
chains.
Mixingcanbedonebyhand,inastand
mixer,orinafoodprocessor.Theprocessor
worksinlessthanaminute,afractionofthe
timerequiredforhandormixerkneading,and
thereforeofferstheadvantageofminimizing
exposuretoairandoxygen,anexcessof
whichbleachestheremainingwheatpigments
andaltersflavor.Thehighenergyinputheats
thedough,whichshouldbeallowedtocool
beforefermentation.
Two-StageMixing:Autolysis
An alternative to mixing all the dough
ingredients at once is theautolyse or
“autolysis” method championed by a
