On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1067
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theglutenandsetthestructure.
Thefillinginopenpiesandtartsblocks
ovenheatfromreachingthepastrysurface
directly,andcanpreventthecrustfrom
cookingthrough,sothatitendsuppaleand
soggyratherthanbrownanddry.This
problemispreventedbyprecookingthecrust
onitsown(bakingit“blind,”orempty,often
withdrybeansorceramicpieweightsto
supportthedoughandpreventslumping).A
crisperbottomcrustalsoresultsfromhigher
oventemperaturesandfromputtingthe
containeronthelowestrackordirectlyonthe
ovenfloor.Crispnesscanbepreservedundera
moistfillingbysealingthecrustsurface
duringprecookingwithamoisture-resistant
layerofeggyolkorwhite,orafterwardswith
cooked-downjamsorjellies,orchocolate,or
amoisture-absorbinglayerofcompatible
crumbs.
CrumblyPastries:
ShortPastry,PâteBrisée
Crumblybutfirmpastriesareespecially
prominentinFrenchcooking,wherethinbut
robustcrustssupportquiches,varioussavory
pies,andfruittarts.WhereAmericanpie
crustsaretootendertosupportthemselves
andareservedfromthepan,Frenchtartsare
almostalwaysremovedfromthepanand
standontheirown.InthestandardFrench
versionofcrumblypastry,pâtebrisée,coarse
piecesofbutterandeggyolksareplacedin
themidstoftheproperamountofflour,and
theliquidandsolidsgentlyworkedtogether
withthefingerstoformaroughdough.The
doughisthenkneadedbypushingitintoand
alongtheworksurfacewiththeheelofthe
hand,anactionthatdispersesthebutterfinely
intothedough.Thebutterseparatessmall
flouraggregatesfromeachotherandprevents
themfromformingacontinuous,toughmass,
whiletheeggyolksprovidemoisture,fats,
andproteinsthatwillcoagulateduring
cookingandhelpholdtheflouraggregates
