On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1068

together.Thebuttermaybereplacedby
vegetableoils,poultryfats—chicken,duck,
goose—andlardandbeeftallow,depending
onthenatureofthefilling.Thedoughis
allowedtorestintherefrigeratortofirmits
consistencyforthesubsequentrollingoutand
shaping.
Pâtesucréeandpâtesablée—“sugar
pastry”and“sandypastry”—areversionsof
crumblypastrymadewithsugar.Thelarge
proportionofsugarinpâtesabléegivesa
distinctlygrainycharactertothepastry.
Onesimplewaytomakecrumblypastry
crustsistostartwithpremadecrumbs,bread
orcookiecrumbsmoistenedwithfatand
simplypressedintothepanbeforeaquick
baking.
FlakyPastries:
AmericanPiePastry

ThemethodsformakingAmerican-stylepie


doughproduceacrustthatisbothtenderand
flaky.Theydispersesomeofthefatevenly
intothedough,separatingsmallparticles
fromeachother,andsomecoarsely,
separatingdifferentlayersofthedoughfrom
eachother.Therearevariouswaysto
accomplishthis.Oneistoworkthefatinto
thedryflourintwodifferentstages,thefirst

timefinely,thesecondinpea-sizedpieces.
Anotheristoaddthefatallatonce,anduse
thefingerstofragmentandgentlyrubthe
chunksdowntopeasize;therubbingdoesthe
finedispersion.(Thismethodworksbetter
withshorteningthanwithbutter,whichwarm
fingerscansoftenexcessively.)Asmall
amountofcoldwater,2–4tablespoonsper
cup/15–30gmper100gmflour,isthenadded
andthemixturemanipulatedverybriefly,just
untilthewaterisabsorbedandadoughforms.
EarlyAmericanPiePastries
American pie pastry is notable for having