On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 223
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Thetrickistomixthetwomaterialsas
evenlyaspossiblewhilelosingaslittleairas
possible.Typically,betweenaquarterand
halfofthefoamvolumeislostatthisstage.
Thetraditionalmethodofmixingbaseand
foamistovigorouslystiraquarterofthe
foamintothebasetolightenit,thenusea
spatulato“fold”thetwotogetherby
repeatedlyscoopingsomebase,cutting
verticallythroughthefoam,anddepositing
thebasealongthecutsurface.
Whylaboriouslyfoldratherthanquickly
stir?Becausetheroughmassofstarch,fats,
andotherforeignmatterinthebasepops
bubbles,andthemoreyourubthebubbles
againstsuchamass,themorebubblesyou
lose.Simplystirringcontinuouslygratesthe
twophasestogetherandcausesasubstantial
lossofair.Foldinghastheadvantageof
disturbingthefoamonlyalongthesurface
wherethebaseisbeingdeposited,andthat
surfaceisonlydisturbedforasinglestroke.
Theresultisminimalgratingofbubbles
againstmix,andmaximalbubblesurvival.
Despitetheusualcookbookdirectionto
foldthewhitesandbasetogetherquickly,it’s
besttofoldslowly.Thedisruptiveshearforce
feltbyagivenbubbleisproportionaltothe
velocityatwhichit’sbeingpushedalongthe
base.Thesloweryourspatulamoves,theless
damageitwilldotothefoam.
Theoneexceptiontothefoldingrulesis
thesoufflémadewithafruitpureeorjuice
cookedwithsugartoathicksyrup.Sucha
basecanbepouredontothefoamasit’s
beaten—asouffléversionoftheItalian
meringue—andwillactuallyincreasethe
mixvolume.
PreparingandFillingtheSouffléDish Ever
sinceLaChapelle’stimbaleofcream,soufflé
dishes have been prepared in two steps: first
the interior is buttered, and then coated with
sugarforasweetsoufflé,withbreadcrumbsor
