On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1069

some of its fat rubbed into the flour to
tenderize,andsomerolledinforflakiness.
The first American recipes — Amelia
Simmons’s “Puff Pastes for Tarts” — are
notablefortheirtersenessandvariety.She
givesseveral;herearethree.
No. 1. Rub one pound of butter into one
poundofflour,whip2whitesandaddwith
cold water and one yolk; make into paste,
roll in six or seven times one pound of
butter, flouring it each roll. This is good
foranysmallthing.
No. 3. To any quantity of flour, rub in
threefourthsofitsweightinbutter(twelve
eggs to a peck), rub in one third or half,
androllintherest.
No.8.Rubinoneandhalfpoundofsuet
tosixpoundsofflour,andaspoonfullof
salt,wetwithcream,rollin,insixoreight
times, two and half pounds of butter —
goodforachickenormeatpie.
—AmericanCookery,1796


Thedoughisrestedintherefrigeratorto
rechillthefatandletthewaterbecomemore
evenlydistributed,andthenisrolledout.The
rollingstretchesthedoughandthusdevelops
somegluten,andflattensthefatchunksinto
thinsheets.Thecombinationcreatesthe
layeredtexture.Therolleddoughisthen

restedtoallowtheglutensheetstorelax,and
shapedwithminimalstretching;otherwisethe
glutenmayreboundandthecrustshrink
duringbaking.Intheoven,thesheetsoffat,
trappedair,andsteamfromthedoughwater
(andthewaterinanybutter)allhelpto
separatethedoughintolayersandgiveita
flakytexture.
Shorteningandlardgenerallyproduce
moretenderandflakycruststhanbutter,
whichmeltsintothedoughatalower
temperatureandwhosewatercancausedough
particlesandflakestosticktoeachother.
LaminatedPastries:
PuffPastry,PâteFeuilleté