On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1071
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anybakedmeat,ormakepasteforvenison,
Florentine, tart or what dish else you
pleaseandsobakeit.
—TheEnglishHousewife,1615
Nowthefat,traditionallybutterand
weighingabouthalftheinitialdoughweight
ispoundedwitharollingpinuntilitwarmsup
toabout60ºF/15ºCandbecomespliable,its
consistencymatchingtheconsistencyofthe
dough.(Firmerfatwouldtearthedough,
softerfatwouldbesqueezedoutduringthe
laterrolling.Shortenings,withtheirlowwater
content,producealighterandcrisperpuff
pastry,thoughalessflavorfulone.)Thefatis
formedintoaflatpiece,placedonthedough
square,andthecombinationrepeatedlyfolded
ontoitselfandrolledout,withturnstovary
thedirectionofrollingandrestsinthe
refrigeratortogivethefatachanceto
resolidifyandtheglutentorelax.The
sequenceofturning,rolling,folding,and
refrigeratingisrepeatedseveraltimes,fora
totalofsix“turns.”Witheachrollingout,the
glutenbecomesmoredeveloped,andthe
doughmoreelasticanddifficulttoshape.
Theresultofthiswork,whichtakes
severalhours,isadoughmadeupof729
layersofmoistenedflourseparatedby728
layersoffat.(Thetermmillefeuille,or
“thousand-leaf,”isappliedtoapastrymade
bystackingtwobakedpiecesofpuffpastry,
withalayerofpastrycreaminbetween.)The
doughisrestedforatleastanhourafterthe
finalturn,andthenisrolledoutforbakingto
athicknessofaboutaquarterofaninch/6
mm.Thismeansthateachlayerinthedough
ismicroscopicallythin,aroundathousandth
ofaninchorahundredthofamillimeter.This
ismuchthinnerthanpaperthin,aboutthe
diameterofanindividualstarchgranule.The
doughmustbecutwithaverysharpknife;a
dullbladewillpressthemanylayerstogether
attheedgeandrestraintheirexpansion.When
puffpastryisbakedinaveryhotoven,the
