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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 723

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medica, the mandarin orangeCitrus
reticulata, and the pummeloCitrus grandis.
Atleastoneoffspringisrelativelyyoung:the
grapefruit apparently originated in the West
Indies in the 18th century as a cross between
thepummeloandthesweetorange.
Citron Perhaps the first citrus fruit to reach
the Middle East around 700BCE and the
Mediterranean around 300BCE, citrons are
native to the Himalayan foothills. They gave
theirnametothegenus,andtheirnamecame
inturnfromtheirresemblancetotheconeofa
Mediterranean evergreen cedar (Greek
kedros).Theseveralvarietieshavelittlejuice,
but an intensely aromatic rind that can
perfume a room — citrons are used in both
AsianandJewishreligiousceremonies—and
thathaslongbeencandied(p.295).InChina’s
Sichuanprovince,therindismadeintoahot
pickle.
FlavorNotesinSomeCitrusFruits


The chemicals listed in the first five flavor
headings are terpenes, which are especially
characteristic of citrus fruits and some herbs
andspices(p.390).

Mandarin,orTangerineMandarinoranges
werecultivatedinancientIndiaandChinaat
least3,000yearsago.Thewell-known


Japanesetype,thesatsuma,appearedbythe
16thcentury,andMediterraneantypes
(“tangerines,”fromtheMoroccancityof
Tangier)inthe19thcentury.Mandarinstend
toberelativelysmallandflat,withareddish,
easilypeeledrindandadistinctive,rich
aromathathasnotesofthymeandConcord
grape(thymol,methylanthranilate).They’re
themostcold-hardyofcitrustrees,yetthe
fruitsarefairlyfragile.Satsumasareseedless



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