On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1170
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stock-basedbrownandwhitesauces,or
espagnoleandvelouté;andthemilk-based
béchamel.Eachofthesereliesonadistinctive
combinationofrouxandliquid.Brownsauce
consistsofastockmadefrombrowned
vegetables,meat,andbones,thenreduced
afterthickeningwitharouxthatiscooked
untiltheflourbrownsaswell.Whitesauce
usesastockmadefromunbrownedmeat,
vegetables,andbones,andisboundwitha
paleyellowroux.Béchamelcombinesmilk
witharouxthatisnotallowedtochangecolor
atall.Fromthesethreeparentsauces,the
cookcanproducescoresofoffspringsimply
byfinishingthesaucewithdifferent
seasoningsandenrichments.
Oncetherouxhasbeenaddedtothestock,
themixtureisallowedtosimmerforquitea
while—twohoursforvelouté,anduptoten
inthecaseofbrownsauce.Duringthistime,
theflavorisconcentratedaswaterevaporates,
andthestarchgranulesdissolveanddisperse
amongthegelatinmolecules,withavery
smoothtexturetheresult.Brownsauceis
cookedforthelongesttimebecauseit’smeant
tobequitecleartotheeye,andthisrequires
thattheglutenproteinscoagulateandbe
carriedtothesurface,wheretheyandthe
tomatosolidscanbeskimmedoff.
Escoffiersaidthatasauceshouldhave
threecharacteristics:a“decided”taste,a
texturethat’ssmoothandlightwithoutbeing
runny,andaglossyappearance.Thetasteisa
matterofmakingfinestocksandbeing
judiciousinseasoning,whiletheconsistency
andappearancedependonhowthethickening
isaccomplished.Generally,longandpatient
simmeringisnecessary,sothattherewillbe
littleornovestigeofgranularstructureleftto
thestarch,andtheinsolubleglutenproteins
willbecaughtupinthesurfacescumandso
removedfromthesauce.Gelatincontributes
somebodytothestock-basedsauces,butthe
starchiswhatgivesthemmostoftheir
