On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1273

refining, and therefore have a more complex
flavor than pure sucrose. There are several
basickindsofbrownsugars.
Factory Brown Sugars “Factory” brown
sugars were originally produced during the
initial processing of the cane juice into
unrefined sugar. These includedemerara,
turbinado, andmuscovado sugars. Demerara
(named after a region in Guyana) came from
the first crystallization stage of light cane
juice, and took the form of sticky, large,
yellow-gold crystals. Turbinado was raw
sugar partly washed of its molasses coat
during the centrifugation, also yellow-gold
and large but not as sticky as demerara.
Muscovado was the product of the final
crystallizationfromthedarkmotherliquor(p.
675);itwasbrown,small-grained,sticky,and
strong-flavored.
Refinery Brown Sugars Today, these
evocative names of factory sugars are often


applied to a different product, brown sugars
produced at the refinery using raw sugar as
the starting material, not the cane juice. All
ordinarybrownsugarisalsomadeinthisway.
There are two ways to make refinery brown
sugars: redissolving the raw sugar in a syrup
of some kind and then recrystallizing it, so
thatitretainssomeofthesyruponitscrystal

surfaces;orrefiningtherawsugaralltheway
to pure white sugar, and then coating or
“painting” its surfaces with a thin film of
syrupormolasses.
Thebasicdifferencebetweenfactoryand
refinerybrownsugarsisthattruefactory
sugarsretainmoreoftheflavoroftheoriginal
canejuice,includinggreen,fresh,and
vegetable-oceanaromas(fromhexanol,
acetaldehyde,anddimethylsulfide).Both
kindshaveanimportantvinegararoma(from
aceticacid),aswellascaramelandbuttery
notes(thebutteryonefromdiacetyl,indeed
foundinbutter),andsaltyandbittertastes