On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1075

bread dough and added even more layering
butter, thus making a lighter, crisper pastry
thantheoriginal.Theyalsousedthedoughto
surroundavarietyoffillings,notablyremonce
(butter creamed with sugar and often
including some form of almonds). Danish
pastriesaremadeinessentiallythesameway
ascroissants.Theinitialdoughismoisterand
softer,includessugarandalsowholeeggs,so
it’s sweeter, richer, and distinctively yellow,
anditisn’tgivenaninitialrising.Oftenmore
butter or margarine is used for the
laminations, and the dough may only be
turnedthreetimes,sothelayersarefewerand
thicker.Danishpastrydoughisoftenusedasa
container for sweet or rich fillings, or rolled
out, covered with a combination of nuts,
raisins or flavored sugar, rolled up, and cut
into spiral cross-sections. Once the final
pastry is formed, it’s allowed to rise until
about doubled in volume (again, at
temperatures that keep the shortening solid),


andthenisbaked.
TenderSavoryPastry:
Hot-WaterPastry,
PâteÀpâté

Hot-waterpastry,orpâtépastry,isunlikethe
otherpastries.Itsoriginalpurposein

medievaltimeswastoprovideasturdy
containerformeatdishesmeanttobekeptfor
sometime(p.560).Todayit’susedtoenclose
meatpâtés,tomakemeatpies,andsometimes
asanalternativetopuffpastrythatsurrounds
thetenderloininbeefWellingtonandthe
salmonincoulibiac.Itiseasilyrolledoutand
formedintoacontainer,abletoretainjuices
releasedduringcooking,yettendertoboth
knifeandtooth.It’smadewitharelatively
largeamountofwater—50partsper100
flour—andabout35partslard.Thewater
andlardareheatedtogetherneartheboil,and
theflouristhenadded,themixturestirredjust