On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 779

dominated by a sweet-smelling compound
called the angelica lactone. Its candied stems
wereapopulardelicacyfrommedievaltimes
through the 19th century, but they’re seldom
seeninthekitchennowadays.Variouspartsof
the plant now flavor gins, ver-mouths,
liqueurs, candies, perfumes, and other
manufacturedproducts.
Celery Celery was a thin-stalked, aromatic
but bitter herb called smallage before
gardeners developed the mild, thick-stalked
vegetable.Apium graveolens is a native of
damp European habitats near the sea. The
distinctive flavor of its leaves and stalks
comes from compounds called phthalides,
whichitshareswithlovageandwithwalnuts.
It also has citrus and fresh notes. Celery is
often simmered or sautéed with onions and
carrots to provide a broad aromatic base for
saucesandbraises.
Chervil Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) has


small, pale, finely divided leaves, and a
delicate flavor that comes from relatively
small amounts of the tarragon aromatic
estragole; it’s best used raw or barely
warmed, since heat drives away its flavor.
ChervilisacomponentoftheFrenchmixture
finesherbes.
HerbsoftheCarrotFamily

Angelica Angelicaarchangelica
Celery Apiumgraveolens
Chervil Anthriscuscerefolium
Corianderleaf Coriandrumsativum
Dill Anethumgraveolens
Fennel Foeniculumvulgare
Lovage Levisticumofficinale
Mitsuba Cryptotaeniajaponica
Parsley Petroselinumcrispum
Saw-leafherb Eryngiumfoetidum