On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 875

starch has been allowed to retrograde during
manufacturing. And it turns out that
retrograded starch is good for our bodies! It
resists our digestive enzymes and therefore
slows the rise in blood sugar following a
meal,andfeedsdesirablebacteriainthelarge
intestine(p.258).
SeedOils

Nutsandsoybeansarerichinoil,whichis
keptinthemassofstoragetissueintiny
packagescalledoilbodies.Eachisatinyoil
dropletwhosesurfaceiscoveredwithtwo
protectivematerials:phospholipidrelativesof
lecithin,andproteinscalledoleosins.The
surfacecoatingpreventstheoildropletsfrom
poolingtogether.Seedoilbodiesarevery
similarinsizeandstructuretothefatglobules
inanimalmilk.Thisiswhywhenweeatnuts,
theybecomecreamyinthemouthratherthan
simplygreasy.It’salsoonereasonwhyfora


thousandyearscookshavemade“milks”from
almonds,soybeans,andotheroil-richseeds
(pp.494,504).
SeedFlavors

Themostimportantcontributorstotheflavors
ofgrains,legumes,andnutsarefragmentsof
theunsaturatedfattyacidsintheoilsandcell

membranes,whichhaveindividualaromas
describedasgreen,fatty,oily,floral,and
mushroomy.Theouterbranlayergrains
containsthebulkoftheseed’soilsand
enzymes,andsogiveswholegrainsastronger
flavor,aswellascontributingsomevanilla
andtoastednotesfromitsphenolic
compounds.Beansareespeciallyrichingreen
andmushroomnotes.Nuts,whichareusually
cookedwithdryheat,containproductsofthe
browningreactionswithtypicalroasted
aromas.Theflavorsofparticularseedsare
describedbelow.