On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1076
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untilitformsahomogeneousmass,then
rested.Thelargeproportionoffatlimits
glutendevelopment,thusproviding
tenderness,andalsoactsasakindofwater
repellant,thusprovidingabarrieragainst
cookingjuices.Theprecookingswellsand
gelatessomeoftheflourstarch,whichtakes
upwaterandgivesthedoughathick,
workableconsistencyinplaceofanelastic
glutenstructure.
Cookies
Commoncookiesaresimplepleasures,butthe
microcosmofallcookiesisasummaofthe
baker’sart.Cookiesincludesweetbitesized
bakedgoodsofallsorts:crumblyand
laminatedpastries,wafers,butterandsponge
cakes,biscuits,meringues,nutpastes.The
termcomesfromthemedievalDutchfor
“littlecake.”TheFrenchequivalentispetits
fours,or“littleovengoods,”andtheGerman
kleinGebäckmeansmuchthesame.Their
miniaturesizeandthenumerouspossibilities
forshaping,decorating,andflavoringhave
resultedinagreatdiversityofcookies,many
ofthemdevelopedbytheFrenchandnamed
inthesamespiritthatgaveusItalianpastas
calledbutterflies,littleworms,andprieststranglers:hencecat’stongues,Russian
cigarettes,eyeglasses,andNero’sears.
CookieIngredients
andTextures
Mostcookiesarebothsweetandrich,with
substantialproportionsofsugarandfat.
They’realsotender,thankstoingredients,
proportions,andmixingtechniquesthat
minimizetheformationofaglutennetwork.
Butthentheymaybemoistordry,crumblyor
flakyorcrisporchewy.Thediversityof
texturesarisesfromahandfulofingredients,
andfromtheproportionsandmethodsof
