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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1173

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tablespoons/10–20gmflour.Themixtureis
cookeduntilitthickens,amatterofafew
minutes.
EscoffieronFutureRoux
Though he was a traditionalist in many
ways, Escoffier openly looked forward to
the day when pure starch would replace
flour as the thickener in stock-based
sauces.
Indeed,if[starch]isabsolutelynecessary
togivethemellownessandvelvetinessto
thesauce,itismuchsimplertogiveit
pure,whichpermitsonetobringittothe
pointinaslittletimeaspossible,andto
avoidatooprolongedsojournonthefire.
Itisthereforeinfinitelyprobablethat
beforelongstarch,fecula,orarrowroot
obtainedinastateofabsolutepuritywill
replaceflourintheroux.
Today’s proponents of the classic sauces,


however,generallyremainloyaltoflour.
Becausethey’remadeatthelastminute,
graviesarenotcookedlongenoughtocause
thedisintegrationofthestarchgranules,and
thereforegenerallyhaveaslightlycoarse
texture,evenwhenlump-free.Thisgives
graviesacharacterverydifferentfromthatof
thesuavesauce:hearty,andwhentheyare
extremelythick,almostbready.Thecookcan


obtainasmootherconsistencybymakingan
initialpreparationfromtheflouranda
fractionofthedeglazingliquid,heatingthe
mixtureuntilthestarchgranulesgelateand
crowdupagainsteachothertoformathick
paste,andwhiskingthepastevigorouslyto
smashthegranulesintoeachotherandbreak
themupintofinerpieces.Thispasteisthen
mixedwiththerestofthedeglazingliquid
andsimmereduntilit’sevenlydispersedand
theliquidreachesthedesiredconsistency.
SaucesThickenedwith
PlantParticles:Purees



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