On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 728

lemon,andalsoacoupleoffurtherhybrids.
Thelarge,coarsePonderosavarietyis
probablyalemon-citroncross,andtheMeyer
lemon,athin-skinned,lessacidversion
broughttoCaliforniaintheearly20th
century,isprobablyacrossbetweenthe
lemonandeitherorangeormandarin,witha
distinctiveflavordueinparttoathymenote
(fromthymol).Lemonsaregenerally“cured”
forbettershelflife;they’repickedgreenand
heldincontrolledconditionsforseveral
weeks,wheretheirskinyellows,thins,and
developsawaxysurface,andthejuice
vesiclesenlarge.
ThepreservedlemonsofnorthernAfrica
haverecentlybecomemorewidely
appreciatedasacondiment.They’remadeby
cuttingandsaltinglemonsandlettingthem
fermentforsomeweeks.Thegrowthof
bacteriaandyeastssoftenstherindand
changestheiraromafrombrightandsharpto
richandrounded.Shortversionsofthe


process—forexample,freezingandthawing
thelemonstospeedsaltpenetration,then
saltingforafewhoursordays—willbring
aboutsomechemicalchangesastheoilglands
aredisruptedandtheircontentsmixwith
othersubstances,butnotthefullflavor
developmentoffermentation.

Other Citrus Fruits Lesser-known citrus
fruits that are worth knowing about include
thefollowing:
Bergamot,C.bergamia,possiblyacross
betweenthesourorangeandsweetlime
(C.limettoides),isgrownmainlyinItaly
foritsfloral-scentedrindoil.Itwasone
ofthecomponentsoftheoriginaleaude
colognedevelopedin17th-century
Germany,andismainlyusedin
perfumes,tobaccos,andEarlGreytea.
Kumquats,speciesofthegenus
Fortunella,arebite-sizefruitsthatare
eatenwhole,thinrindandall.Theyare