On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 332
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collagen(skinalsoprovidesflavorfulfat).
Connectivetissuehastwouses.First,inlongcookedstocks,soups,andstews,itdissolves
outofbonesorskintoprovidelarge
quantitiesofgelatinandasubstantialbody.
Andsecond,itcanbeturnedintoadelicious
dishitself,witheitherasucculentgelatinous
textureoracrisp,crunchyone,dependingon
thecutandthecookingmethod.Longmoist
cookinggivestendervealears,cheeks,and
muzzlefortêtedeveau,orChinesebeef
tendonorfattyporkskin.Abriefercooking
producescrunchyorchewycartilaginouspig’s
ears,snouts,andtails;andrapidfryinggives
crispporkrinds.
Fat
Solidfattissueisseldompreparedassuch:
insteadweusuallyextractthefatfromits
storagecells,andthenuseitasbothacooking
mediumandaningredient.Therearetwo
majorexceptionstothisrule.Thefirstiscaul
fat,athinmembraneofconnectivetissuewith
alaceworkofsmallfatdepositsembeddedin
it.Thismembraneistheomentumor
peritoneum,usuallyfromthepigorsheep,
whichcoverstheorgansoftheabdominal
cavity.Caulfathasbeenusedatleastsince
Romantimesasawraptoholdfoodstogether
andprotectandmoistentheirsurfacewhile
theyarecooked.Duringthecooking,muchof
thefatisrenderedfromthemembraneandthe
membraneitselfissoftened,sothatitallbut
disappearsintothefood.
Thesecondfattissuefrequentlyusedasis
ismild,soft-texturedporkfat,especiallythe
thickdepositslyingimmediatelyunderthe
skinofbellyandback.Baconislargelyfat
tissuefromthebelly,whilebackfatisthe
preferredfatformakingsausages(p.170).
Italianlardoisporkfatcuredinsalt,
flavorings,andwine,eatenasisorusedto
flavorotherdishes.InclassicFrenchcooking,
